Seafood & Bonito Red Vermicelli

Before you start

• Soak the red vermicelli in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain and snip.

  Soaking washes away excess manufacturing salt and surface starch that would muddy the broth. Use kitchen shears to snip the drained bundle once or twice into 3-inch lengths—this dish is meant to be eaten with a spoon, not chopsticks.

• Toss the dry seafood gently in 3 tablespoons of the sweet potato starch.

  Coat each piece evenly just before blanching; this thin layer gelatinizes in hot water to lock in moisture.

• Whisk the remaining 4 tablespoons of sweet potato starch with the cold water.

  Set the slurry aside by the stove and remember to stir it again right before using, as the heavy starch settles fast.

Ingredients

• shucked oysters or medium shrimp1/2 lb
• sweet potato starch7 tbsp
• toasted sesame oil1 tsp
• Taiwanese red vermicelli4 oz
• low-sodium chicken broth6 cup
• dried bonito flakes1 cup
• fried shallots3 tbsp
• soy sauce2 tbsp
• sugar1 tsp
• ground white pepper1/2 tsp
• cold water1/2 cup
• garlic4 small cloves
• fresh cilantro1/2 cup
• Taiwanese black vinegar2 tbsp
• chili oil1 tbsp

Method

1. 01

   Blanch the starch-coated seafood in boiling water for 30 to 45 seconds.

   Bring a small pot of water to a boil and drop the coated seafood in. The moment the starch turns translucent and forms a slippery shield, pull them out with a slotted spoon, rinse under cold water to stop the cooking, and toss with the sesame oil so they do not stick together.

2. 02

   Steep the bonito flakes in the boiling chicken broth off the heat for 4 minutes.

   Bring the broth to a rolling boil in a large pot or Dutch oven, kill the heat, and toss in the bonito. Do not boil the flakes continuously—steeping them like tea extracts pure, smoky sweetness without bitter tannins. Skim out and discard the flakes with a fine-mesh strainer.

3. 03

   Simmer the red vermicelli and seasonings in the bonito broth for 8 to 10 minutes.

   Bring the strained broth back to a medium simmer and add the drained noodles, fried shallots, soy sauce, sugar, and white pepper. Because red vermicelli is steamed and caramelized during drying, it will soften and drink up the broth without dissolving into mush.

4. 04

   Drizzle in the starch slurry while stirring continuously to thicken the soup.

   Lower the heat, give your slurry a fresh stir, and pour it in slowly while moving your ladle in a figure-eight motion. Let the pot bubble gently for 1 minute until the broth is glossy, viscous, and coats the back of a spoon.

5. 05

   Fold in the blanched seafood off the heat and ladle into bowls with the garnishes.

   Let the residual heat warm the oysters and shrimp through for a minute, then serve hot topped generously with the raw garlic water, a splash of black vinegar, cilantro, and chili oil.

Notes

• Stick to Taiwanese red vermicelli rather than standard white misua.

  Sold in cellophane bags at Asian grocers (often labeled 'Brown Threaded Noodles'), red vermicelli undergoes a roasting process that keeps its structure intact in hot soup. White wheat vermicelli will disintegrate into paste within two minutes.

• Use sweet potato starch or potato starch so the broth does not break.

  Cornstarch is fine in a pinch, but native cooks avoid it here because enzymes and heat cause cornstarch slurries to thin out and turn watery as the bowl cools.

• Substitute Worcestershire sauce and rice vinegar if you cannot find Taiwanese black vinegar.

  Taiwanese black vinegar (like Kong Yen brand) is fruitier and milder than Chinese Chinkiang vinegar; mixing equal parts Worcestershire sauce and unseasoned rice vinegar hits the exact same tangy, spiced notes.