Sartén de Tamal de los Domingos
(sar-TEN deh tah-MAHL deh lohs doh-MEEN-gohs)
El Lonche (The Evening Bridge)
It isn't wrapped in a banana leaf. Instead of a sprawling Sunday breakfast of fried pork and bundled tamales that the Surquillo market tamalera woke at four to steam, this Moquegua-born method uses supermarket masa harina to feed you when you are living in an Ohio suburb on a Tuesday night. It sears beautifully in a ten-inch cast-iron skillet, forming a crispy crust traditional tamales lack, and as the masa edges crisp and hiss, it delivers the smoky ají panca, the rich corn masa, the hidden treasures of black olive and egg—without the hours of wrapping and steaming. Slice it straight from the pan, slide a wedge onto a plate, and pour the coffee.
Before you start
Prepare a quick Salsa Criolla to serve alongside the tamal.
The rich, fatty corn demands bright acidity. Julienne a red onion, wash it in cold water, and toss with the juice of two limes, chopped cilantro, minced ají limo or jalapeño, and a generous pinch of salt.
Ingredients
- canned white hominy30 oz
- chicken broth1/2 cup
- lard or vegetable shortening1/4 cup
- aji amarillo paste2 tbsp
- aji panca paste2 tbsp
- salt1 tsp
- ground cumin1/2 tsp
- vegetable oil2 tbsp
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1/2 lb
- red onion1 med
- garlic3 med clove
- Roma tomato1 large
- eggs2 large
- Botija or Kalamata olives8 med
- roasted peanuts1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Pulse the drained hominy and warm chicken broth in a food processor until it forms a thick, slightly coarse purée.
Do not liquefy it; you want a rustic, sandy texture that mimics traditional soaked and ground Peruvian corn. Fold in the melted lard, ají amarillo, one tablespoon of the ají panca, salt, and cumin until the masa is vibrant and uniform.
- 02
Brown the diced chicken thighs in a skillet over medium-high heat with a tablespoon of oil, then transfer to a plate.
Leave the rendered fat in the pan to build your aderezo.
- 03
Sauté the red onion, garlic, remaining ají panca, and diced tomato in the same skillet until the mixture breaks down into a thick, jammy paste.
This is the essential flavor base. Once the tomatoes have cooked down and the raw pepper flavor is gone, toss the chicken back in for a minute to coat, then remove from heat.
- 04
Spread exactly half of the masa mixture into an even layer in an oiled, ten-inch skillet over low heat.
Spoon the chicken aderezo evenly over the top, leaving a half-inch border around the edges. Distribute the sliced eggs, olives, and peanuts over the filling, then seal the entire thing by gently spreading the remaining masa over the top.
- 05
Cover the skillet tightly and cook on medium-low heat for ten to twelve minutes until the bottom develops a deep, golden-brown crust.
This crispy crust, known as la costra, is the absolute hallmark of the skillet method and something you will never get from a steamed tamal.
- 06
Confidently invert the tamal onto a large plate, then slide it raw-side down back into the skillet.
Add a splash more oil to the edges if the pan looks dry. Cook uncovered for another ten minutes until the bottom crust forms and the center feels firm and set. Slice into wedges and serve immediately.
Notes
Sourcing authentic Peruvian corn can be difficult in the diaspora.
Utilizing canned white hominy and pulsing it in a food processor perfectly replicates the hearty, alkaline-treated texture of traditional maíz mote pelado, instantly turning a two-day project into a weeknight reality.
Do not fear the flip.
Treat it exactly like a Spanish tortilla. Place a plate wider than the skillet over the top, hold it tight with an oven mitt, and turn it over without hesitation.
From Cook Peruvian in America.