Salami and Eggs
וווּרשט און עיער·(wurst un eyer)
The Deli Counter Lunch
Before the era of low-cholesterol diets and complicated brunch menus, this was the undisputed king of the Jewish-American weeknight dinner. Known colloquially as 'Dad food' because it was virtually impossible to mess up, wurst un eyer is a masterclass in making magic out of standard supermarket ingredients. The secret the old-school delis still practice is the pancake-style method. You don't just scramble the meat into dry curds. You let the garlicky beef salami render its fat, pour the eggs over top, and flip it whole—crispy on the outside, custardy on the inside, tasting exactly like the Lower East Side circa 1955.
Ingredients
- Kosher all-beef salami chub4 oz
- rendered chicken fat or neutral vegetable oil1 tbsp
- yellow onion1/2 small
- large eggs4 large
- water1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 pinch
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- rye bread2 slice
- spicy brown deli mustard2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Render the fat and caramelize the onions.
Place a 10-inch skillet over medium heat, add the schmaltz or oil, and sauté the onions for 5 to 7 minutes until softened and sweet.
- 02
Sear the salami.
Add the cubed or matchstick salami, cooking for 2 to 3 minutes until the edges sear, brown, and curl, releasing their garlicky beef fat.
- 03
Prepare the eggs.
While the meat crisps, vigorously whisk the eggs in a bowl with the water, a pinch of salt, and a generous amount of black pepper until frothy.
- 04
Pour the eggs pancake-style.
Spread the meat and onions evenly across the skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low, and pour the eggs directly over the top without stirring.
- 05
Lift the edges to build structure.
Let sit for 30 to 60 seconds until the edges set, then gently lift with a wide spatula and tilt the pan to let the runny uncooked egg flow underneath until the bottom is browned.
- 06
Flip the entire mass.
Slide the spatula under the center and flip it over in one quick motion, cooking for no more than 15 to 30 seconds on the second side so the eggs remain yielding and soft.
- 07
Serve immediately.
Slide the pancake onto a warm plate, slice into wedges, and serve with toasted rye bread and a heavy smear of spicy brown mustard.
Notes
Sourcing the salami is non-negotiable.
Do not buy pre-sliced deli meat or Italian pork salami. You need the whole 'chub' of kosher all-beef cooked salami (like Hebrew National) so you can cut thick pieces that curl and crisp in the pan.
Keep it strictly kosher with the fat.
Schmaltz provides an unparalleled savory depth, but neutral vegetable oil is a perfectly accurate substitute. Avoid butter entirely to experience the dish within its authentic kosher parameters.