Saba Shioyaki
サバの塩焼き·(saba shioyaki)
Ichiju-Sansai on a Tuesday: Soup, Rice, and Sides
Twenty minutes. A Japanese proverb claims mackerel rots while it's still alive, a testament to how fast it turns, but for saba shioyaki, a quick sake wash, a precise hit of Diamond Crystal kosher salt, and a cold sheet pan slowly render out the funky oils. Forget an industrial fish grill or a kitchen filled with smoke to get this right; start the standard oven broiler, watch until the skin blisters, and you are left with dense flesh beneath shatteringly crisp skin.
Before you start
Wash the fillets with sake.
Place the mackerel on a tray and pour the sake evenly over the flesh and skin. Let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes so the alcohol can bind to the volatile, fishy compounds, then meticulously pat the fish completely dry with paper towels.
Score the skin and cure with salt.
Make two or three shallow, diagonal slashes across the skin of each fillet to prevent curling. Sprinkle the salt evenly over both sides from high above. Let rest for 15 minutes to draw out the last of the odor-causing moisture, then pat completely dry one final time.
Ingredients
- mackerel fillets2 med
- Japanese cooking sake2 tbsp
- Kosher salt1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1 tsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- daikon radish1 cup
- lemon1 med
- soy sauce1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Start the mackerel in a cold pan.
Lightly dust the skin side of the fillets with a minuscule amount of flour, tapping off any excess. Pour the neutral oil into a cold, unheated frying pan, place the mackerel in the oil skin-side down, and turn the heat to medium-low.
- 02
Cook undisturbed and manage the fat.
As the pan heats up, the fish will gently sizzle and expel its own oils. Cook undisturbed for 5 to 6 minutes. Fold a piece of paper towel and use tongs to frequently wipe away this excess oil from the pan, as it holds the fishy smell you want to discard.
- 03
Flip and steam-roast the flesh.
When the skin is deeply golden and the flesh has turned white about 70 percent of the way up the side of the fillet, carefully flip the fish. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid, and let it steam-roast for 3 to 4 minutes until cooked through and flaky.
- 04
Re-crisp the skin.
Remove the lid, wipe away any residual moisture in the pan, and briefly flip the fish to give the skin side one last 10-second blast of heat to ensure it remains shatteringly crisp.
- 05
Plate the Ichiju-Sansai way.
Transfer the fish to a plate, skin-side up. Squeeze the grated daikon gently to remove excess water and form it into a small mound next to the fish. Serve with a lemon wedge, pouring a few drops of soy sauce directly onto the daikon mound to eat alongside bites of the rich fish.
Notes
Embrace frozen mackerel.
Don't shy away from frozen Norwegian or Boston mackerel at your local Asian market. Flash-freezing preserves the delicate oils of blue-backed fish perfectly and stops degradation dead in its tracks.
Check for pre-salted fish.
If your mackerel is labeled Shio-saba (Salted Mackerel), skip the salt cure step entirely to avoid ruining the dish, but do not skip the sake wash and the thorough drying.
From Cook Japanese in America.