Res en Mole Chichilo Adaptado
Res en Mole Chichilo·(res en mo-leh chee-chee-lo)
El Arte de los Moles: Demystifying the Sauces
In Oaxaca, they call Mole Chichilo el mole triste—the sad mole—because it is the austere, deeply complex sauce traditionally served to comfort families in mourning. It forsakes the sugary sweetness of festive moles for a profound, smoky depth built on burnt corn tortillas, blackened chile seeds, and the intoxicating aroma of toasted avocado leaves. For the diaspora cook, tracking down the canonical chilhuacle negro pepper is nearly impossible, but the secret of an abuela’s kitchen lies in technique, not just geography. By charring accessible dried chiles and swapping tough, long-simmered beef for quick-searing ribeye, this adaptation summons the soulful, ancient flavor of the motherland on a random weeknight.
Before you start
Prepare all ingredients before beginning the tatemado (charring) process.
Once the skillet is hot, the charring moves quickly. Having the chiles deseeded and the vegetables prepped ensures nothing burns improperly.
Ingredients
- dried mulato chiles3 large
- dried pasilla chiles2 large
- dried ancho or guajillo chile1 large
- corn tortilla1 med
- tomatillos3 small
- Roma tomato1 med
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic cloves3 large
- whole cloves2 small
- whole allspice berries3 small
- cumin seeds1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- low-sodium beef broth4 cup
- lard or neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- dried avocado leaves3 med
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- masa harina3 tbsp
- warm water1/2 cup
- masa harina1 cup
- warm water3/4 cup
- lard or neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- chayote1 med
- fresh green beans1/2 lb
- ribeye or filet medallions1 1/2 lb
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Roast the tomatillos, tomato, onion, and unpeeled garlic on a dry skillet over medium-high heat until softened and blistered with black spots.
Turn the vegetables occasionally, which should take about 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer them to a blender, peeling the garlic first. In the same pan, quickly toast the cloves, allspice, and cumin for about 15 seconds until fragrant, then add them to the blender.
- 02
Burn the corn tortilla entirely black on both sides in the dry skillet, then do the same for the reserved chile seeds.
Do not panic about the smoke; this carbonization is the literal soul of the mole. Break the burnt tortilla into the blender. Toast the seeds until completely black, about 3 to 5 minutes, then transfer them to a small bowl.
- 03
Soak the blackened seeds in hot water for 5 minutes, drain, and repeat this washing process two more times.
This crucial step washes away the harsh, acrid tannins while preserving the deeply roasted, earthy flavor. Add the washed seeds to the blender.
- 04
Briefly press the flattened, deseeded chiles against the hot skillet just until they change color slightly and become fragrant.
It should take no more than 15 seconds per side. Do not let the flesh burn, or the mole will turn acrid. Transfer them to a bowl, cover with hot water, and let soak for 15 minutes until pliable.
- 05
Drain the soaked chiles and blend them with the charred vegetables, spices, burnt tortilla, washed seeds, and one cup of warm beef broth.
Blend on high for at least two full minutes until the mixture transforms into an incredibly smooth, dark paste.
- 06
Heat two tablespoons of lard or oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering, then carefully pour in the blended mole paste.
It will splatter aggressively. Stir constantly for about 5 to 7 minutes until the paste thickens and darkens. Slowly whisk in the remaining 3 cups of warm beef broth and bring to a gentle simmer.
- 07
Whisk three tablespoons of masa harina into a half cup of warm water to create a slurry, then slowly stir it into the simmering mole.
Turn the heat to low and let it simmer for 15 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the salt generously.
- 08
Knead the remaining masa harina, warm water, lard, and salt into a soft dough, then roll into small balls with a deep dimple pressed into each center.
Drop these dumplings directly into the simmering mole. They are ready when they float to the surface, about 7 to 10 minutes. While they cook, boil the cubed chayote and green beans in a separate pot of salted water until just tender.
- 09
Season the beef medallions heavily with coarse salt and black pepper, then sear them in a hot, oiled skillet until medium-rare.
Cook for about 3 to 4 minutes per side, then remove to a cutting board to rest.
- 10
Briefly toast the dried avocado leaves over an open flame or in a hot skillet until highly fragrant, drop them into the simmering mole, and immediately turn off the heat.
Never boil the leaves aggressively, or they will lose their delicate anise magic.
- 11
Ladle a generous pool of the dark mole into wide bowls, ensuring each gets a few dumplings, and top with the seared beef and boiled vegetables.
Serve alongside warm corn tortillas and a glass of mezcal.
Notes
Sourcing avocado leaves.
Only use culinary avocado leaves from the Mexican avocado tree, which are often found dried in well-stocked Latin markets. Common Hass avocado leaves from your backyard are flavorless and mildly toxic. If you absolutely cannot find them, substitute one bay leaf and a small pinch of anise seed.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.