Quesadillas de Comal con Flor de Calabaza y Epazote
Quesadillas de Comal con Flor de Calabaza y Epazote·(keh-sah-dee-yahs deh koh-mahl kohn flor deh kah-lah-bah-sah ee eh-pah-soh-teh)
El Almuerzo (The Morning Masa Rhythm)
In the bustling markets of Oaxaca, the morning air is thick with the scent of toasted corn and melting quesillo. Women stand over massive clay comales, pressing fresh masa with an instinctual, hypnotic rhythm. This isn’t the microwaved flour-tortilla tragedy of the American suburbs. This is the real thing: a pocket of raw masa cooked directly on the griddle, stuffed with delicate summer squash blossoms and the unmistakable, pungent hit of native epazote. If you want your kitchen to smell exactly like a Oaxacan grandmother’s morning routine, this is the blueprint. We use a heavy cast-iron skillet to mimic the comal and smart substitutions to get you there without sacrificing the soul of the dish.
Before you start
Carefully clean the squash blossoms.
Squash blossoms are beautiful, but their internal reproductive parts carry a bitter, sharp taste. Hold the blossom gently by the petals, reach into the center, and pinch off the fuzzy yellow stamen or pistil. Snap off the small, spiky green sepals at the base.
Wash without waterlogging.
Do not soak the flowers, or they will ruin the texture of the filling. Rinse them under a gentle trickle of cold water and immediately lay them flat on paper towels to pat dry.
Prepare your substitutions if necessary.
If you can't find authentic Queso Oaxaca, low-moisture whole milk mozzarella perfectly mimics its melting profile. If epazote is unavailable, mix 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh cilantro with a half-teaspoon of dried Mexican oregano.
Ingredients
- masa harina1 1/2 cup
- warm water1 1/4 cup
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- pork lard3 tbsp
- white onion1/4 cup
- garlic1 large clove
- serrano chile1 small
- fresh squash blossoms20 med
- fresh epazote leaves4 med
- Queso Oaxaca6 oz
Method
- 01
Hydrate the masa.
In a large bowl, whisk the salt into the masa harina. Pour in the warm water and knead vigorously with your hands for 3 to 5 minutes until the dough is soft, springy, and slightly tacky but doesn't stick to your fingers.
- 02
Portion the dough.
Pinch off portions of masa and roll them into golf ball-sized spheres, roughly 1.5 to 2 ounces each. Cover them immediately with a damp towel so they don't dry out and crack.
- 03
Sauté the aromatics.
Heat 1 tablespoon of pork lard in a skillet over medium heat. Add the minced onion and sweat until translucent, about 3 minutes, then stir in the garlic and serrano chile and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
- 04
Wilt the squash blossoms.
Toss in the torn squash blossoms and a pinch of salt. Sauté briefly, gently turning them with a spatula just until they wilt and release their moisture, about 1 to 2 minutes.
- 05
Bloom the epazote off the heat.
Remove the skillet from the heat immediately. Stir in the chopped epazote so its volatile oils bloom in the residual heat, then transfer the guisado to a bowl.
- 06
Press the masa.
Preheat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Place a masa ball between two sheets of plastic (cut from a heavy-duty ziplock bag) and, using a tortilla press or a heavy flat-bottomed pan, press it into a thin 5-inch disc.
- 07
Sear the raw masa.
Peel the plastic from the masa and gently lay the disc flat onto the hot, dry cast-iron skillet. Let it cook for 30 to 45 seconds, just until the bottom releases easily and the edges begin to dry, then flip.
- 08
Fill and fold the quesadilla.
Immediately scatter about 2 tablespoons of the shredded cheese over one half of the tortilla. Top the cheese with a spoonful of the squash blossom guisado, then gently fold the empty half over the filling to create a half-moon.
- 09
Crisp the exterior.
Lightly dab the exterior of the quesadilla with a tiny amount of the remaining pork lard. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side, pressing gently, until the outside is golden with dark toasted spots and the cheese is oozing.
Notes
Moisture is the enemy of raw masa.
Sautéing the blossoms beforehand isn't just for flavor; it evaporates their high water content so they don't steam the inside of your quesadilla into a soggy mess.
Respect the heat of the comal.
A well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is the best modern substitute for a clay comal. The high volumetric heat capacity ensures the water at the surface of the masa evaporates rapidly, creating a micro-layer of steam that prevents sticking.
Make ahead for weeknights.
The squash blossom filling can be made up to two days in advance and kept refrigerated, severely cutting down your prep time when you get home from work.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.