Pupusas de Ayote
(poo-POO-sahs deh ah-YOH-teh)
The Art of the Pupuseada: Gathering Around the Comal
She cradles a handful of wet dough, presses a hollow for the grated ayote, and pinches the edges tight. The diaspora culinary landscape is littered with well-meaning mistranslations, the most tragic being the use of sweet, roasted winter squash for pupusas de ayote. The secret to keeping these cheese-stuffed masa cakes from exploding on the cast-iron comal isn't roasting; it's wringing every last drop of water out of the raw squash before it ever meets the dough. Set a bowl of cold water by the stove, and leave the pupusa alone until the masa hisses against the iron.
Before you start
Blanch the Curtido.
To get the authentic 'al dente' crunch for your slaw, pour boiling water over shredded cabbage and let it sit for exactly 5 to 10 minutes before draining and adding your vinegar brine.
Simmer the Salsa.
Salvadoran salsa is cooked and velvety, not raw. Boil Roma tomatoes with a piece of onion and green bell pepper until soft, blend smooth, and simmer in a pan with a pinch of chicken bouillon.
Ingredients
- zucchini2 med
- kosher salt1 tsp
- low-moisture mozzarella1 1/2 cup
- queso fresco1/2 cup
- white onion2 tbsp
- chicken bouillon powder1/2 tsp
- garlic powder1/4 tsp
- masa harina3 cup
- warm water2 3/4 cup
- vegetable oil2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Extract the water from the squash.
Toss the grated zucchini with the kosher salt and let it sit for 5 minutes, then grab it by the handful and aggressively wring it out over the sink until it is bone-dry.
- 02
Mix the savory filling.
Combine the dry zucchini shreds with the mozzarella, queso fresco, minced onion, bouillon powder, and garlic powder, ensuring the onion is fine enough that it won't puncture the dough.
- 03
Knead the masa.
Mix the masa harina and warm water with your bare hands until it reaches the pliable consistency of soft Play-Doh; add a splash of water if it cracks, or a dusting of masa if it sticks, then cover with a damp towel and rest for 10 minutes.
- 04
Lubricate your hands and portion the dough.
Lightly coat your palms with vegetable oil to prevent tearing, then roll the masa into golf-ball-sized spheres, roughly two ounces each.
- 05
Stuff and shape the pupusas.
Press your thumb into the center of a masa ball to form a small, thick-walled cup, pack in two tablespoons of the filling, pinch the top closed, and gently pat it back and forth between your palms until it forms a uniform disc about a quarter-inch thick.
- 06
Toast on a hot comal.
Cook the pupusas on a preheated, lightly oiled griddle or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat for 3 to 5 minutes per side, looking for a pale golden crust and the glorious, crispy blowouts of leaked cheese.
Notes
Mandatory Accompaniments.
A pupusa eaten in isolation is a tragedy. They must be served with curtido (pickled cabbage slaw) and a mild salsa roja to cut the rich, heavy cheese.
The Secret of the Squeeze.
Zucchini holds an astonishing amount of water. If you skip the aggressive wringing step, the internal steam will rupture the masa and leave a sticky, exploded mess on your griddle.