Pupusas de Arroz de Olocuilta con Queso y Loroco
Pupusas de Arroz de Olocuilta con Queso y Loroco·(poo-POO-sas deh ah-ROHS kohn KEH-soh ee loh-ROH-coh)
The Art of the Pupuseada: Gathering Around the Comal
In 1938, a punishing drought left the town of Olocuilta without corn, so the locals adapted by milling rice. The result was a spectacularly crisp, delicate pupusa that turned a dusty highway stop into a culinary pilgrimage site. If you grew up watching your grandmother make these, you know the ancestral secret that most adaptations skip: you have to aggressively scald the gluten-free rice flour with rolling, boiling water to force it into a pliable dough. We’re stuffing these with a savvy blend of mozzarella, a splash of cream, and a pinch of cornstarch to mimic the melty chew of traditional Salvadoran quesillo, plus the earthy, herbaceous bite of frozen loroco easily found at your local Latin market.
Before you start
Aggressively dry the loroco.
Any excess water from the frozen or jarred loroco will turn into steam inside the pupusa during cooking, causing the dough to rupture. Squeeze it thoroughly in a clean kitchen towel before chopping.
Ingredients
- white rice flour3 cup
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- water3 1/2 cup
- low-moisture mozzarella cheese2 1/2 cup
- frozen or jarred loroco1 cup
- heavy cream2 tbsp
- cornstarch1 tsp
- kosher salt1 pinch
- neutral oil2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Tame the rice flour.
In a large, heat-proof bowl, whisk the rice flour and salt together, create a well in the center, and add one tablespoon of oil. Pour in three cups of the boiling water, mixing rigorously with a sturdy wooden spoon—do not use your hands yet.
- 02
Knead and rest the masa.
If dry pockets remain, add the remaining half cup of boiling water. Let the mixture sit for three to five minutes until just cool enough to handle, then vigorously knead by hand for about three minutes until completely smooth and elastic. Cover with a damp towel and rest for fifteen minutes to fully hydrate.
- 03
Reconstruct the quesillo.
While the dough rests, combine the shredded mozzarella, chopped loroco, heavy cream, cornstarch, and a pinch of salt in a mixing bowl. Knead the mixture by hand until it clumps into a cohesive paste, then form it into eight to ten small balls and refrigerate them. Matching the firmness of the cheese to the firmness of the rested dough is the secret to pupusas that do not tear.
- 04
Assemble the pupusas.
Dip your hands in the oil and water mixture, grab a golf-ball-sized piece of dough, and pat it into a quarter-inch thick disc. Press your thumb into the center to create a shallow bowl, drop in a chilled cheese ball, and coax the dough up the sides to seal it entirely, pinching off any thick excess at the top.
- 05
Palmear, the flattening.
With freshly oiled hands, gently pat the stuffed ball back and forth between your palms, rotating it slightly with each strike. Work it until it forms a flat disc about four to five inches across, patching any small tears with a scrap of extra dough.
- 06
Cook to a blistering golden-brown.
Heat a cast-iron skillet or heavy non-stick griddle over medium-high heat and lightly brush with oil. Lay the pupusas down and leave them entirely undisturbed for four to five minutes until the bottoms are deeply golden and crispy, then flip with a wide spatula and repeat on the other side.
Notes
Never use glutinous rice flour.
Also labeled as sweet rice flour or mochiko, its high amylopectin content will turn the hot dough into an unworkable paste. Stick to standard white rice flour.
Respect the cornstarch bind.
American mozzarella releases more fat and water than Salvadoran quesillo when heated. Adding a single teaspoon of cornstarch absorbs this excess moisture and prevents the cheese from boiling over and blowing through the delicate rice dough wall.