Pu Pu Platter Beef Teriyaki Skewers
烤牛肉串·(kǎo niúròu chuàn)
Appetizers & Soups: The First Bag Out of the Box
You rip open the wax-paper bag before the cartons even hit the counter; the Pu Pu Platter was the aluminum-foil-wrapped crown jewel of the Friday night takeout ritual, and the beef skewer was the prize everyone fought over. The secret to getting those soy-sugar glaze blisters is that a quick bath in baking soda alters the meat's pH, transforming cheap flank steak into the melt-in-your-mouth skewers—it's the exact flavor you remember, only better, because you did it yourself. Soak the bamboo skewers, crank the broiler, and keep an eye on the meat.
Before you start
Slice the beef against the grain.
Inspect the flank steak to find the direction of the muscle fibers, then slice across them at a sharp 45-degree angle into strips about a quarter-inch thick. Popping the meat in the freezer for twenty minutes beforehand helps achieve cleaner, thinner cuts.
Soak the bamboo skewers.
Submerge fifteen to twenty six-inch bamboo skewers in water for at least an hour to keep them from incinerating under the broiler.
Ingredients
- flank steak1 1/2 lb
- baking soda1 1/2 tsp
- water3 tbsp
- low-sodium soy sauce3/4 cup
- water1/2 cup
- dark brown sugar1/2 cup
- rice vinegar2 tbsp
- toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
- garlic3 large cloves
- fresh ginger1 tbsp
- garlic powder1/2 tsp
- neutral oil2 tbsp
- cornstarch1 1/2 tbsp
- water2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Velvet the beef.
In a large bowl, dissolve the baking soda in three tablespoons of cold water, add the beef, and massage the alkaline liquid thoroughly into the meat. Let it sit at room temperature for exactly thirty minutes, then rinse it aggressively in a colander under cold water to remove the metallic taste and pat completely dry.
- 02
Bloom the aromatics.
Warm a tablespoon of neutral oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and sauté the fresh garlic and ginger for sixty seconds until fragrant. Pour in the soy sauce, a half cup of water, brown sugar, rice vinegar, sesame oil, and garlic powder, whisking until the sugar dissolves before removing from the heat to cool.
- 03
Marinate the meat.
Pour a half cup of the cooled liquid and the remaining tablespoon of neutral oil over the dried beef, massaging to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour, or up to four.
- 04
Thicken the glaze with a slurry.
Return the remaining sauce to a gentle simmer. Whisk the cornstarch into two tablespoons of cold water until smooth, then slowly stream it into the simmering liquid, boiling for exactly sixty seconds until glossy and clear to avoid a cloudy paste.
- 05
Thread the skewers.
Discard the excess marinade from the beef and weave the strips onto the soaked bamboo skewers like an accordion, pushing the stick in and out of the meat so it lies relatively flat.
- 06
Broil to a heavy char.
Arrange the skewers in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet and place under a high broiler about four inches from the heat source. Broil for three to four minutes until the edges bubble and char, flip, brush generously with the thickened glaze, and broil for another two to three minutes.
- 07
Apply the final lacquer.
Brush the skewers one last time with the thick, sticky glaze while the meat is still sizzling hot, serving immediately.
Notes
The New England Red Ah-So Variation.
If you grew up in the Northeast, your takeout skewers were likely neon red. To replicate this iconic Ah-So glaze, swap the soy-teriyaki marinade for a blend of a half cup honey, a quarter cup hoisin, a quarter cup soy sauce, two tablespoons brown sugar, a tablespoon dry sherry, a tablespoon tomato paste, a teaspoon five-spice powder, three minced garlic cloves, and a half teaspoon of red food coloring.