Poulet Paillard
Paillard de Volaille·(pie-YAR duh voh-LYE)
Chapter 2 — The Mains
If you have ever secured a midday table at Pastis, ordered a glass of cold Sancerre, and eaten the chicken paillard, you understand the theater of the American brasserie. A paillard is, by definition, just a piece of meat pounded thin, but in the hands of a line cook who gives a damn, it becomes a high-wire act of technique and perfect ingredient synergy. There are no shortcuts here. The overnight dry brine is non-negotiable for a viciously crisp crust, and the cold cultured butter emulsified into the pan sauce provides the dish's true soul. When that hot, golden chicken meets the bitter frisée and the salty crackle of Picholine olives, you will finally understand. Yes, this is exactly what Spring Street tastes like.
Before you start
Pound the chicken to a uniform thickness.
Place a chicken breast between two sheets of heavy-duty plastic wrap. Using the smooth side of a meat mallet or a heavy rolling pin, gently strike the meat with an outward motion until the entire cutlet expands to an even 1/4-inch thickness.
Dry brine the paillards overnight.
Season the pounded chicken generously on both sides with the kosher salt. Place the meat in a single layer on a wire rack set over a baking sheet and leave it in the refrigerator, completely uncovered, for 12 to 24 hours. The continuous airflow dries the exterior to a tacky pellicle, guaranteeing a proper crust.
Ingredients
- boneless skinless air-chilled chicken breasts2 large
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- grapeseed oil2 tbsp
- shallot1 large
- garlic2 clove
- chicken stock1/2 cup
- fresh lemon juice3 tbsp
- French cultured butter4 tbsp
- fresh chives1 tbsp
- head of frisée1 large
- Picholine olives1/4 cup
- Marcona almonds1/4 cup
- cherry tomatoes1 pt
- Champagne vinegar1 tbsp
- Dijon mustard1 tsp
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- Parmigiano-Reggiano2 oz
Method
- 01
Whisk the vinaigrette and stage the salad ingredients.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the Champagne vinegar and Dijon mustard. Slowly stream in the extra-virgin olive oil while whisking constantly to emulsify. Add the frisée, Picholine olives, Marcona almonds, and cherry tomatoes to the bowl, but do not toss them yet.
- 02
Sear the paillards in a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet.
Remove the chicken from the fridge and season with freshly cracked black pepper (do not add more salt). Heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Add the grapeseed oil, lay the chicken in away from you, and sear undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes until a dark, viciously crisp crust forms. Flip, cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, and transfer to a warm platter.
- 03
Build the foundation of the pan sauce.
Lower the skillet heat to medium and discard any burnt cooking oil, leaving the caramelized fond behind. Add the minced shallot and sliced garlic, stirring constantly for 60 seconds. Deglaze the pan with the chicken stock and lemon juice, scraping up the browned bits with a wooden spoon, and let the liquid reduce by half.
- 04
Emulsify the cold cultured butter.
Turn the heat to the lowest possible setting. Add the ice-cold butter cubes one at a time, swirling the pan continuously. The butter will slowly melt into the liquid, creating a glossy, velvet emulsion. If the pan is too hot, the butter will break into a greasy slick. Remove from the heat immediately and stir in the chopped chives.
- 05
Dress the salad and assemble the final plates.
Pour the warm lemon-butter sauce directly over the resting paillards. Toss the frisée mixture to lightly coat the greens in the vinaigrette. Mound a generous handful of the salad over each piece of chicken, and finish by shaving rustic curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano directly over the top.
Notes
Cultured butter matters.
Standard American sweet cream butter holds too much water and lacks lactic tang. French cultured butter (at least 82% fat) produces a much tighter, glossier emulsion for the pan sauce. If you cannot find it, add a tiny drop of crème fraîche to standard butter off the heat.
Picholine substitution.
Picholine olives are explicitly chosen for their firmness and brine. If they are entirely unavailable, Castelvetrano olives are the only acceptable substitute.