Poulet au Vinaigre de Lyon
Poulet au Vinaigre de Lyon·(poo-lay oh vee-neh-gruh duh lee-ohn)
La Cuisine de Grand-Mère: The Sunday Pots
If you look at the name and think, "Chicken in vinegar? That sounds terrible," you aren't alone. But this is the ultimate lesson in French grandmother magic. Originating in the working-class bistros of Lyon run by formidable women known as Les Mères Lyonnaises, this dish takes a harsh, aggressive ingredient and tames it into something velvety, sweet, and deeply comforting. You don’t need an expensive heritage bird from the French countryside; accessible, bone-in supermarket chicken thighs perfectly mimic the juicy richness of a slow-braised French Sunday pot.
Ingredients
- bone-in skin-on chicken thighs3 lb
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- all-purpose flour2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- shallots3 large
- garlic cloves3 large
- red wine vinegar1/2 cup
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- dry white wine1/2 cup
- high-quality chicken broth1 cup
- heavy cream1/3 cup
- fresh tarragon2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Brown the chicken to render the fat.
Season the dried chicken generously on both sides with salt and pepper, then lightly dust the skin side with flour, tapping off any excess. Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the butter foams and turns lightly golden, lay the chicken in the pan, skin-side down. Do not touch them for 8 to 10 minutes until the skin turns a deep golden brown. Flip, cook for 3 more minutes, then remove the chicken to a plate.
- 02
Build the aromatic base.
Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium, add the shallots, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up the browned bits, until translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the tomato paste, letting it cook and darken for 30 seconds.
- 03
Execute the grandmother's three-stage deglaze.
Turn the heat up slightly and pour in exactly one-third of the red wine vinegar. It will violently bubble and hiss; stir continuously until the vinegar is almost entirely evaporated and looks like a thick, dark syrup. Add the next third and repeat the reduction. Add the last third and let it reduce one more time. You have just built a classic French gastrique without boiling your shallots in acid.
- 04
Braise the chicken.
Pour in the white wine and chicken broth, bringing the liquid to a gentle simmer. Nestle the chicken thighs back into the pan, skin-side up, so the crispy skin stays above the liquid line. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan partially, and simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is meltingly tender.
- 05
Finish the velvety sauce.
Carefully remove the chicken thighs to a serving platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Turn the heat to medium-high and let the remaining sauce boil and reduce for 3 to 5 minutes until slightly thickened. Lower the heat to low, and stir in the heavy cream and tarragon. Taste for seasoning, then pour the sauce generously around—not entirely over—the chicken.
Notes
Serve it like they do in Lyon.
This is almost always served with a potato gratin, steamed potatoes, or a simple buttered pasta (like macaroni or egg noodles) to soak up the incredible sauce. A crusty baguette is non-negotiable.
From Cook French in America.