Portakallı Zeytinyağlı Kereviz
Portakallı Zeytinyağlı Kereviz·(por-tah-kahl-uh zey-tin-yah-luh keh-reh-viz)
Zeytinyağlılar (The Olive Oil Cooling Rack)
Celery root is an ugly, intimidating knot of a vegetable, but in the Turkish winter kitchen, it transforms into magic. The secret isn't some rare spice; it's a grandmother's sheer stubbornness and a flour-lemon bath that keeps the root pristine white. Slowly braised in fresh orange juice and good olive oil beneath a wet parchment lid, it must be left to cool completely in its own pot until the juices and starches settle into a glossy, sweet-tart glaze. Make it the night before if you have to. Don't rush it, and whatever you do, don't serve it hot.
Before you start
Squeeze the citrus.
Don't even think about using bottled orange juice. Take an extra two minutes to squeeze sweet navel oranges fresh; the acidity and pectin are entirely different and essential to the final sauce.
Ingredients
- cold water4 cup
- lemon1 med
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- celeriac1 1/2 lb
- extra virgin olive oil1/3 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- carrots2 med
- Yukon Gold potato1 large
- fresh orange juice1 cup
- granulated sugar1 tsp
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- hot water1/2 cup
- fresh dill1 handful
Method
- 01
Prepare the flour bath.
In a large bowl, whisk together the cold water, half of the lemon juice, and the flour. Slice the gnarly skin off the celery root, cut it into 1-inch cubes, and immediately submerge them in the cloudy water to prevent oxidation.
- 02
Sweat the aromatics.
Heat half the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat. Add the diced onion and a pinch of salt, and sauté until translucent. Toss in the sliced carrots and cook for 3 more minutes until they bleed a little orange into the oil.
- 03
Assemble the braise.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the celery root directly from the flour bath into the pot without rinsing. Add the cubed potato and gently stir to coat everything in the oil.
- 04
Add the citrus liquid.
Pour in the fresh orange juice, remaining lemon juice, sugar, and salt, adding just enough hot water so the liquid reaches halfway up the vegetables.
- 05
Tuck in the cartouche.
Crumple a piece of parchment paper, run it briefly under cold water, wring it out, and smooth it directly onto the surface of the vegetables. Cover the pot with its standard lid.
- 06
Simmer until tender.
Bring to a gentle boil, then drop the heat to the absolute lowest setting and simmer undisturbed for about 30 minutes, or until the root yields effortlessly to a paring knife.
- 07
Cool in the pot.
Kill the heat, drizzle the remaining raw olive oil over the vegetables, and replace the parchment and lid. Walk away and let it cool completely to room temperature—this is non-negotiable if you want that signature, glossy glaze.
- 08
Garnish and serve.
Transfer gently to a serving platter, hit it aggressively with chopped fresh dill, and serve at room temperature with plenty of crusty bread.
Notes
The cooling rule is law.
Zeytinyağlılar are never eaten hot. The magic happens as the dish cools in its own vessel, allowing the pectin from the orange and the starches to emulsify with the olive oil.
Don't skip the flour water.
Celery root turns an ugly brown the second it hits the air. The flour and lemon bath protects the color and leaves a starchy residue that helps thicken the braising liquid later.
From Cook Turkish in America.