Pork Tamago Onigirazu
ポークたまごおにぎり·(pōku tamago onigiri)
The American Uchinanchu Pantry (Foundations)
Pork tamago onigirazu isn't delicate sushi. In Okinawa, canned pork is the daily foundation. We aren't pressing this into perfect little blocks; we use the rice paddle to flatten hot rice, folding a sheet of roasted seaweed around a sizzling slab of canned pork like a thick, handheld envelope. The secret is crisping the meat in its own rendered fat, keeping the egg wildly fluffy with a dab of mayonnaise, and smearing the inside with Andansu—a sweet, ginger-laced pork miso paste. Wrap the whole block in a tight layer of plastic wrap, slice it down the middle, and eat it with your hands.
Before you start
Render the pork fat.
Heat a small frying pan over medium heat, adding the ground pork and stir-frying until fully cooked and the fat has rendered.
Build the sweet miso paste.
Lower the heat and deglaze with the sake, then stir in the brown sugar, miso, and minced ginger.
Reduce and cool the Andansu.
Stir continuously for 2 to 3 minutes until the mixture thickens into a glossy, dark, jam-like paste, then transfer to a jar and let it cool. This keeps in the fridge for weeks.
Ingredients
- Japanese short-grain white rice1 cup
- yaki-nori1 large sheet
- canned pork luncheon meat2 med slices
- eggs2 large
- Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise1 tsp
- salt1/8 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tsp
- ground pork1/4 cup
- white miso2 tbsp
- brown sugar2 tbsp
- sake1 tbsp
- fresh ginger1 tsp
Method
- 01
Let the pork crisp in its own fat.
Place a non-stick skillet over medium heat without oil. Fry the luncheon meat slices for 2 to 3 minutes per side until deeply caramelized, then remove to a paper towel and wipe the skillet clean.
- 02
Whisk and fold the egg.
Aggressively whisk the eggs with the mayonnaise and salt until perfectly smooth. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium-low heat, pour in the egg, and fold the sides inward to create a thick rectangular patty that roughly matches your meat slices, then cut it in half to make two portions.
- 03
Build the foundation on a sheet of plastic wrap.
Place a square of plastic wrap on your cutting board and lay one nori half flat on top, shiny side down. Wet your fingers slightly and spread half a cup of warm rice evenly over the left side of the nori, leaving a tiny border.
- 04
Layer the filling and fold.
Place an egg patty on the rice, spread a teaspoon of Andansu over the egg, and top with a hot, crispy pork slice. Lift the empty right half of the nori and fold it over the filling like closing a book, pressing down firmly.
- 05
Seal, rest, and slice.
Immediately pull the sides of the plastic wrap tightly over the square to seal it, letting the trapped steam soften and fuse the nori. Let it rest for 2 to 5 minutes, then slice in half crosswise with a sharp, slightly wet knife straight through the plastic.
Notes
Source the right pork.
Okinawan locals strongly prefer the Danish brand Tulip for its milder flavor. If you can't find it at your local Asian market, use 25% less sodium Spam to keep the sandwich from becoming overly salty.
Add a creamy tuna layer.
Drain a small can of tuna thoroughly and mix with a tablespoon of Kewpie mayonnaise, spreading this layer between the egg and the pork for a rich texture contrast.
Introduce a crisp green.
For a fresh crunch, add a single leaf of completely dry, crisp lettuce or lightly boiled spinach to the stack before folding.
From Cook Okinawan in America.