Pork Chops with Vinegar Peppers
Costolette di Maiale con Papaccelle·(koh-stoh-let-teh dee mah-yah-leh kon pah-pah-chel-leh)
The Friday Night Abbondanza: American Bounty, Italian Soul
A proper weeknight dinner doesn't require a slow simmer. Squat, sweet papaccelle peppers—a jar of pickled cherry peppers preserved since autumn in red wine vinegar—are tossed into a screaming-hot twelve-inch cast-iron skillet with rich cuts of freshly butchered pork. The harsh, biting acidity cuts through the unctuous fat in a way that American restaurant chefs later tried to complicate with flour and butter. In twenty minutes, sear until the pork fat pops, then stand back for naked bone-in chops, good olive oil, garlic, and the sharp, magical brine straight from the pepper jar.
Ingredients
- bone-in pork rib chops4 large
- kosher salt2 tsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- garlic4 med cloves
- jarred sweet cherry peppers1 cup
- jarred hot cherry peppers1/2 cup
- pepper jar vinegar brine1/4 cup
- dry white wine1/4 cup
- fresh rosemary1 large sprig
Method
- 01
Season the meat aggressively.
Pull the chops from the fridge twenty minutes before cooking to remove the chill, pat them completely dry with paper towels, score the fat caps to prevent curling, and season both sides heavily with salt and pepper.
- 02
Execute a hard sear.
Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, then sear the chops undisturbed for five to six minutes until a deep crust forms, flipping once to finish and removing to a plate.
- 03
Fry the aromatics in the rendered fat.
Lower the heat to medium, toss in the smashed garlic and rosemary sprig, and let them sizzle for a minute until the garlic turns pale gold and fragrant.
- 04
Blister the peppers.
Toss the quartered sweet and hot peppers into the skillet, sautéing for a few minutes so they soften and pick up the pork flavor.
- 05
Deglaze with wine and brine.
Pour in the white wine and the reserved pepper brine, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan as the liquid fiercely boils and reduces.
- 06
Marry the chops and the sauce.
Return the pork and any resting juices to the pan, lower the heat, cover partially, and simmer until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 140°F.
- 07
Rest and serve.
Let the pan sit off the heat for five minutes, then serve immediately, spooning the softened peppers and sharp pan juices generously over the chops.
Notes
Dry meat is crucial for a crust.
Moisture is the enemy of a good sear; always pat the pork bone-dry with paper towels before it hits the hot pan.
Score the fat cap.
Making a few shallow slits in the outer edge of fat prevents the chops from curling up like bowls in the hot oil.
Protect the brine.
The liquid from the pepper jar provides the exact acidic punch needed to balance the pork fat; never substitute it with balsamic vinegar.
From Cook Italian in America.