Pork Belly Steamed Buns

Pork Belly Steamed Buns

刈包·(guàbāo)

夜市 (Yèshì) - Recreating the Night Market at Home

Peel the parchment square off a hot bun from the bamboo steamer and tuck in a half-inch slab of skin-on pork belly—that is Taiwanese gua bao, affectionately known as "tiger bites pig" for the way the white bun clamps down on a dark, glossy slab of meat. You get gelatinous pork belly, sharp pickled mustard greens (suan cai) to cut the fat, a hit of fresh cilantro, and the non-negotiable magic dust: crushed roasted peanuts and granulated sugar. Don't be a martyr and steam the buns from scratch on a Tuesday night; the frozen I-Mei lotus-leaf buns from the Asian market are what every sensible Taiwanese auntie keeps in her freezer. Put your energy where it counts: rendering the pork fat, caramelizing the rock sugar, and taming the mustard greens. Spoon extra braising liquid onto the bun before you fold it shut, and eat it over the sink.

Before you start

  • Rinse the pickled mustard greens thoroughly under cold water, soak in a bowl of fresh water for 10 minutes, then wring out completely and finely chop.

    Squeeze them in your fists until bone-dry so they absorb aromatics in the wok instead of steaming.

  • Pulse the roasted peanuts in a food processor until coarsely ground into a sandy powder, then stir in the powdered sugar.

    Watch it closely so you don't accidentally make peanut butter. You can also crush the peanuts inside a zip-top bag with a heavy rolling pin.

Ingredients

  • skin-on pork belly1 1/2 lb
  • rock sugar2 tbsp
  • garlic cloves5 med
  • fresh ginger3 slices
  • scallions2 stalks
  • whole star anise2 pods
  • Shaoxing wine1/4 cup
  • light soy sauce1/4 cup
  • dark soy sauce2 tbsp
  • ground white pepper1/4 tsp
  • water1 1/2 cup
  • pickled mustard greens1 cup
  • granulated sugar1 tsp
  • unsalted roasted peanuts1/2 cup
  • powdered sugar2 tbsp
  • frozen lotus-leaf steamed buns6 large
  • fresh cilantro1 bunch

Method

  1. 01

    Blanch the pork belly in boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain and pat completely dry.

    This purges impurities and ensures a clean-tasting braise. Make sure the meat is bone-dry so it doesn't splatter in the next step.

  2. 02

    Sear the dry pork belly in an ungreased pressure cooker on Sauté (or a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat) for 2 to 3 minutes per side until golden brown.

    Do not add oil. Drawing out the pork's own lard—a grandma technique called bi you—prevents the fat from feeling greasy later and helps the slabs hold their shape. Transfer the pork to a plate, leaving about 1 tablespoon of rendered fat in the pot.

  3. 03

    Melt the rock sugar in the hot rendered pork fat until it turns into a deep amber caramel, then return the pork to the pot and toss to coat.

    Stir constantly as the sugar melts so it doesn't burn. Coating the meat in caramelized sugar (chao tang se) builds a glossy mahogany finish and deep flavor that soy sauce alone can never achieve.

  4. 04

    Add the 3 smashed garlic cloves, ginger, scallions, and star anise, stirring for 30 seconds until fragrant.

  5. 05

    Deglaze the pot with the Shaoxing wine, then stir in the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, white pepper, and water.

    Scrape up any caramelized bits stuck to the bottom of the pot.

  6. 06

    Lock the pressure cooker lid and cook on High Pressure for 30 minutes, followed by a 10-minute natural release.

    If using a Dutch oven on the stove, cover and simmer gently over low heat for 90 minutes until the fat is gelatinous and fork-tender.

  7. 07

    Stir-fry the squeezed mustard greens with the 2 minced garlic cloves and granulated sugar in a dry skillet over medium heat for 3 minutes.

    Add a teaspoon of fat skimmed from the pork braise or neutral oil once the pan is hot. Cooking out the remaining moisture and adding a pinch of sugar transforms harsh, briny greens into a savory-sour condiment. Transfer to a bowl.

  8. 08

    Remove the cooked pork to a plate, boil the braising liquid on Sauté for 8 to 10 minutes until reduced to a sticky glaze, and return the pork to the pot.

    You want the sauce thick enough to cling to the meat without soaking through the steamed bun.

  9. 09

    Steam the frozen buns over boiling water for 10 minutes until pillowy and hot.

  10. 10

    Pry open each steamed bun and layer with a generous spoonful of mustard greens, a slab of glazed pork belly, a heavy dusting of sweet peanut powder, and a handful of cilantro.

    Don't be shy with the peanut powder—that sweet, sandy crunch against the rich pork and sour greens is the whole point.

Notes

  • Do not skip washing and frying the pickled mustard greens.

    Straight out of the vacuum pack, suan cai is aggressively salty and wet. Rinsing, soaking, squeezing dry, and stir-frying with garlic and sugar is the difference between an authentic night-market bao and a soggy, over-salted mess.

  • Look for pre-ground peanut powder (hua sheng fen) at Taiwanese grocers to save a step.

    If you find a bag of pure roasted peanut powder in the baking aisle, just mix it straight with the powdered sugar.

From Cook Taiwanese in America.

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