Polpette Siciliane al Forno

Polpette Siciliane al Forno

Polpette Siciliane al Forno·(pol-PET-teh see-chee-lee-AH-neh ahl FOR-noh)

The Sunday Simmer: Sicilian-American Meatball Rituals

If you want to understand a Sicilian family, look at their meatballs. In America, we grew accustomed to baseball-sized monstrosities made heavy with ricotta and sandy breadcrumbs from a cardboard can. But true purpetti are an exercise in delicate balance, a testament to the island's history: the savory heft of fresh meat, the sharp bite of sheep's cheese, and the unmistakable Moorish sweetness of pine nuts and plump currants. We skip the messy frying and bake them hard and fast for a busy weeknight, but we keep the two non-negotiable secrets of a Catanese nonna: a wet bread panade for an impossibly soft crumb, and a splash of Marsala wine to make you close your eyes and know exactly where you belong.

Before you start

  • Plump the raisins.

    Place the raisins in a small bowl and cover them with hot tap water. Let them soak for 10 minutes, then drain well. This ensures they don't draw moisture out of the meat while baking.

Ingredients

  • rustic white bread3 cup
  • whole milk1/2 cup
  • 80/20 ground beef1 lb
  • ground pork1/2 lb
  • large eggs2 large
  • Pecorino Romano cheese1 cup
  • dark raisins or Zante currants1/3 cup
  • pine nuts1/4 cup
  • fresh flat-leaf parsley1/3 cup
  • garlic2 clove
  • sweet Marsala wine1 tbsp
  • ground cinnamon1/2 tsp
  • kosher salt1 tsp
  • black pepper1/2 tsp
  • olive oil2 tbsp
  • marinara sauce4 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Make the panade.

    In a large bowl, combine the torn bread pieces and the milk. Toss to coat and let it sit for 5 minutes. Using your hands, aggressively mash the bread until it forms a wet, cohesive paste. This gelatinized starch is the true old-world trick for a meatball that melts in your mouth.

  2. 02

    Build the mix.

    To the bowl with the panade, add the ground beef, ground pork, beaten eggs, grated Pecorino, drained raisins, pine nuts, parsley, garlic, Marsala wine, cinnamon, salt, and pepper.

  3. 03

    Mix gently.

    Using your hands, mix until just combined. Overworking the meat causes the proteins to bind too tightly, resulting in a tough meatball. The mixture should feel light and slightly tacky.

  4. 04

    Form and bake.

    Preheat your oven to 400°F. Line a heavy rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and brush lightly with olive oil. Wet your hands with a little cold water to prevent sticking and roll the mixture into golf-ball-sized portions. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes until a golden-brown crust forms on the outside.

  5. 05

    The final simmer.

    While the meatballs bake, warm your marinara sauce in a wide, shallow pot over medium-low heat. Transfer the hot meatballs directly from the oven into the gently bubbling sauce. Let them simmer together for 10 minutes to absorb the acidity of the tomatoes and finish cooking.

Notes

  • The Marsala secret.

    Adding exactly one tablespoon of Marsala wine to the raw meat mixture is a traditional Catanese technique. The alcohol cooks off, but the fortified wine neutralizes the sulfurous flavor of the raw egg binder and adds a profound, aged depth.

From Cook Sicilian-American Food.

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