Pollo allo Scarpariello
(pohl-lo ah-lo skar-pah-ree-ell-oh)
Il Piatto della Sera: Nonna's Weeknight Stove
If you order Chicken Scarpariello in an American red-sauce joint, you'll likely get a plate of chicken and sausage swimming in a tangy broth of pickled cherry peppers. It's delicious, but it's a diaspora invention. In Naples, the true "shoemaker's style" chicken is a vibrant stovetop braise rooted in the brilliant frugality of cucina povera. You sear the bird, build a quick, deeply savory tomato sauce from the rendered fat, and braise the meat until tender. The real secret of the grandmother's kitchen is that this single pan yields two courses: toss the rich, fat-laced tomato pan-sauce with pasta for your first course, then serve the chicken as the main event.
Before you start
Dry the chicken thoroughly.
Moisture is the absolute enemy of a good sear. Take the time to pat your chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels before hitting them with salt.
Crush the tomatoes beforehand.
Empty your canned tomatoes into a bowl and crush them thoroughly with your hands before you start cooking. It saves time and prevents you from making a mess over a hot stove.
Ingredients
- bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks3 lb
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- red chili flakes1/2 tsp
- yellow onion1 large
- dry white wine1/3 cup
- canned whole peeled tomatoes14 oz
- fresh basil1 bunch
- fresh flat-leaf parsley2 tbsp
- dried short pasta1/2 lb
- Parmigiano Reggianoto taste
Method
- 01
Sear the chicken.
Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chili flakes and let them sizzle for 10 seconds to infuse the oil. Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper, then place the pieces skin-side down in the pan. Let them sear undisturbed until a deep, golden crust forms, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Move the chicken to a plate, leaving the rendered fat in the pan.
- 02
Build the aromatic base.
Lower the heat to medium. Toss the sliced onion into the hot chicken fat. Sauté slowly, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until the onion is meltingly soft and slightly caramelized, about 6 to 8 minutes.
- 03
Deglaze and construct the sauce.
Pour in the white wine. Let it bubble aggressively, stirring constantly until the harsh smell of alcohol cooks off and the liquid mostly evaporates. Add the hand-crushed tomatoes and a generous pinch of salt.
- 04
Braise the chicken.
Return the chicken to the pan along with any resting juices. Nestle the pieces gently into the tomato sauce, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and drop the heat to medium-low. Maintain a gentle simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the chicken is completely tender and cooked through.
- 05
Thicken and finish.
Remove the lid. If the sauce looks a bit thin, crank the heat up slightly and let it bubble uncovered until it thickens to a glossy, spoonable consistency. Turn off the heat and fold in the parsley and the hand-torn basil leaves.
Notes
Serve it the Neapolitan way.
To eat like you're actually in a home in Campania, use the leftover pan sauce to dress your pasta. Remove the cooked chicken to a platter. Toss your hot, boiled pasta directly into the skillet with the remaining tomato-chicken sauce, adding a splash of starchy pasta water and a handful of grated cheese to bring it together. Serve the pasta first, then the chicken.
Missing the vinegar?
If you grew up with the Americanized red-sauce joint version and miss that sharp, pickled tang, you can cheat by stirring in a spoonful of capers or a splash of white wine vinegar right at the very end off the heat.
From Cook Italian in America.