Polcanes Prehispánicos de Toksel
(pohl-KAH-nes deh tohk-SELL)
Masa and Memories: The Panucho & Salbut Stand
Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry cast-iron skillet until the pepitas pop. Crush the white beans. Pinch the coarse mixture inside a handful of supermarket masa harina to shape the polcan. These oval masa fritters hide a secret inside: toksel, a creamy white bean and pumpkin seed filling traditionally scorched by a glowing, red-hot stone. For a weeknight in Ohio, we skip the fiery rock and throw the mixture into a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet instead. You get the exact same smoky, earthy flavor, utilizing ingredients you can find at any standard grocery store. A quick flip in that same cast-iron skillet, and the soft dough yields to a blistered crust.
Before you start
Dry the beans completely.
Canned beans hold onto canning liquid that will ruin the fry. Rinse them thoroughly, then let them drain completely on a paper towel while you prep the rest of your ingredients.
Ingredients
- canned white lima beans15 oz
- raw hulled green pumpkin seeds3/4 cup
- scallions6 med
- habanero pepper1 small
- fresh cilantro2 tbsp
- fresh epazote1 sprig
- kosher salt1 tsp
- sour orange juice1 tbsp
- masa harina2 cup
- warm water1 1/2 cup
- neutral oil1 qt
Method
- 01
Toast and grind the pumpkin seeds.
Drop the raw pumpkin seeds into a dry skillet over medium heat. Keep them moving until they puff, pop, and turn golden brown, which should take 3 to 5 minutes. Pull them off the heat immediately to prevent burning, cool briefly, and blitz them in a food processor to a fine powder. Don't buy pre-ground seeds; those freshly toasted oils are the soul of the dish.
- 02
Scorch the toksel filling in cast iron.
Crank a dry cast-iron skillet to high heat until it is smoking hot. This is your suburban hack for the ancient hot stone. Toss in the drained beans, scallions, habanero, and ground pumpkin seeds. Stir aggressively for 3 to 5 minutes to scorch the beans and force the seeds to release their rich oils.
- 03
Bind the filling.
Pull the pan from the heat and stir in the cilantro, epazote, and a half teaspoon of salt. Squeeze a handful of the mixture; if it crumbles, add a tiny splash of sour orange juice until it holds together like wet sand. Set it aside to cool.
- 04
Hydrate the masa.
In a large bowl, mix the masa harina and the remaining half teaspoon of salt. Stream in the warm water, kneading it with your hands until it feels like soft, pliable clay. Keep the bowl covered with a damp kitchen towel so the dough doesn't dry out and crack on you.
- 05
Shape the snake heads.
Roll a two-ounce golf ball of masa, press a deep well into the center with your thumb, and pack in a tablespoon of the cooled toksel. Pinch the dough shut, smooth the seam, and gently flatten it into a thick, three-inch oval.
- 06
Fry to a golden crisp.
Heat an inch and a half of oil in a heavy pot to 350°F. Carefully drop in the polcanes, taking care not to crowd the pot, and fry for about 3 to 4 minutes a side until deeply golden and armored. Drain them on a wire rack, not paper towels, to keep that crust intact.
Notes
Eat them exactly when they come out.
These are street food meant to be eaten hot while the shell is violently crunchy and the inside is aromatic. Serve them the local way: slice the top open and pile on fresh cabbage slaw, crumbled Cotija cheese, and your favorite salsa.
Mind the moisture.
Draining the canned beans meticulously is vital. Excess moisture in the filling will create steam from the inside out, causing the polcan to explode or fissure during frying.