Polcanes de Toksel Rápido
Polcanes de Toksel·(pohl-KAHN-es deh tohk-SELL)
Mérida Market Afternoons: Antojitos & Front Porch Snacks
If you walk the streets of Mérida on a humid afternoon, you will smell them before you see them. Named for the Maya words for snake head, these elongated masa fritters are canonically stuffed with toksel—a profoundly earthy mix of native white beans, scallions, epazote, and ground pumpkin seeds. In the old villages, grandmothers plunge a red-hot mineral stone straight into the pot to scorch the seeds and release their oils. In an American suburb on a Tuesday night, we fake that ancient magic by blasting the filling in a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet. It’s crispy, unapologetically smoky, cheap to make, and tastes like a direct line to the Yucatán.
Ingredients
- whole pumpkin seeds, in-shell1 cup
- Great Northern or Navy beans15 oz
- scallions4 med
- habanero pepper1 med
- fresh epazote leaves1 tbsp
- fresh cilantro1/4 cup
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- masa harina2 cup
- warm water1 1/2 cup
- vegetable oil or melted pork lard1 cup
- pickled red onions1/2 cup
- green cabbage1 cup
- simple cooked tomato salsa1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Toast the whole pumpkin seeds in a dry cast-iron skillet until fragrant, then grind to a coarse powder.
You want the white, in-shell seeds for the authentic texture. Toast them over medium-high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes until they pop and smell deeply nutty, then pulse in a food processor or spice grinder until they look like coarse sand.
- 02
Mash the drained white beans lightly and combine with the ground seeds, scallions, habanero, epazote, and a half teaspoon of salt.
Do not turn it into a smooth paste; leave about half the beans whole for texture. This mixture will become our toksel filling.
- 03
Sear the bean mixture in a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet with a tablespoon of oil to replicate the traditional hot-rock scorch.
Press the mixture flat with a spatula and let it sit undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes until the bottom lightly scorches and toasts. Give it a good stir, let it sizzle for one more minute, then immediately remove from the heat and fold in the cilantro. Set aside to cool.
- 04
Whisk the masa harina with the remaining half teaspoon of salt and slowly knead in the warm water until it feels like soft playdough.
If the dough cracks easily when pressed, add water a tablespoon at a time. If it sticks to your fingers, dust in a little more masa.
- 05
Form the dough into ten little cups, stuff with the cooled toksel, and seal into elongated ovals.
Divide the masa into golf ball-sized portions. Press your thumb into each to make a well, spoon in a generous tablespoon of filling, and pinch closed. Gently roll and flatten each one between your palms until it mimics the thick, slightly flattened shape of a snake's head.
- 06
Shallow-fry the polcanes in a half-inch of hot oil until they develop a hard, golden-brown crust.
Work in batches so you don't crowd the pan, frying for about 3 to 4 minutes per side over medium-high heat. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
- 07
Split the hot fritters open lengthwise and stuff with cabbage, salsa, and pickled red onions.
Polcanes demand to be eaten immediately, straight from the oil, while the crust is still shattering and hot.
Notes
The secret to the taste is the unhulled pumpkin seeds.
Do not buy the bright green, hulled pepitas if you can help it. Go to the Latin aisle and buy the white, in-shell pumpkin seeds. Grinding them with the shell on gives the toksel its authentic, rustic texture and deep flavor.