Plantation-Style Somen Salad
The Backyard Ohana Potluck: Scaling for the Gathering
Born from the diverse lunch pails of Hawaii's sugar plantations, this is the ultimate expression of backyard potluck culture. It's a brilliant, localized evolution of Japanese chilled noodles, scaled up and fortified with crispy SPAM, shredded egg, and whatever else the neighbors brought to the fields. The secret to grandmother-approved authenticity lies in two things: a sweet, sesame-laced emulsion that clings perfectly to the noodles, and an aggressive ice-water shock to keep the delicate somen from turning to paste. It's practical, perfectly suited for a mainland kitchen, and tastes exactly like a warm summer evening on the islands.
Before you start
Prepare the toppings and dressing a day in advance.
The egg crepes, vegetables, crispy SPAM, and dressing can all be prepped and stored in the fridge up to 24 hours before the potluck. Only boil the noodles on the day you plan to serve.
Ingredients
- soy sauce1/2 cup
- unseasoned rice vinegar1/2 cup
- granulated sugar1/2 cup
- neutral oil1/2 cup
- toasted sesame oil2 tbsp
- MSG or dashi powder1 tsp
- dried somen noodles1 lb
- iceberg lettuce1/2 large
- cucumber1 med
- carrot1 large
- green onions3 med
- kamaboko or imitation crab6 oz
- SPAM or Chinese char siu8 oz
- eggs4 large
- neutral oil1 tsp
- toasted sesame seeds2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Whisk the dressing ingredients until the sugar completely dissolves.
In a jar or bowl, combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and MSG. Shake or whisk aggressively until no sugar granules remain, then slowly stream in the neutral oil and sesame oil to create a smooth, clingy emulsion. Set aside.
- 02
Fry the whisked eggs into paper-thin crepes.
Lightly grease a non-stick skillet over medium-low heat. Pour in just enough egg to coat the bottom, cooking until dry. Remove, let cool, then roll into a tight cigar and slice crosswise into delicate ribbons.
- 03
Pan-fry the diced SPAM until deeply golden and crispy.
If using SPAM instead of char siu, fry the cubes in a bare skillet over medium heat until the fat renders and the edges crisp up. Drain on a paper towel.
- 04
Boil the somen noodles briefly, then aggressively shock them in cold water.
Boil the noodles in a large pot of unsalted water for exactly 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately drain and plunge them under cold running water, vigorously rubbing them with your hands to strip away the surface starch so they don't turn into a gummy paste.
- 05
Layer the salad in a wide, shallow dish to protect the noodles.
Spread the shredded iceberg evenly across the bottom of a 9x13 inch dish, then lay the cold, well-drained somen over the top. Artfully arrange the egg ribbons, SPAM, kamaboko, cucumbers, and carrots in distinct rows.
- 06
Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds, dressing only right before serving.
Pour half the re-emulsified dressing over the platter just before guests dig in, serving the remainder on the side to prevent the lettuce from wilting.
Notes
Don't skimp on the cold water shock.
Somen cooks incredibly fast. The difference between a perfect noodle and a starchy paste is the vigorous cold water rinse. Rub the noodles between your hands until the water runs completely clear.
Use a wide, shallow dish for serving.
Deep bowls cause the delicate somen at the bottom to crush under the weight of the toppings. A 9x13 pan protects the structure of the noodles and ensures an even dressing distribution.
From Cook Hawaiian in America.