Pisang Goreng Renyah
(pee-sahng goh-reng ren-yah)
Sarapan Pagi & Gorengan (Morning Rhythms & The Art of the Fry)
At six a.m., the oil spits in a cast-iron skillet, where dense Saba bananas, a dairy-free rice flour batter, and the brutal shock of ice water form a shattered-glass crust yielding to perfectly steamed, sweet-tart fruit. Leave the soft dessert bananas and heavy baking spices for American muffins, pull them from the oil, drop them on a rack, and eat them while they still burn your fingers.
Ingredients
- Saba bananas or slightly underripe plantains6 large
- rice flour3/4 cup
- all-purpose flour1/4 cup
- tapioca starch or cornstarch2 tbsp
- granulated sugar2 tbsp
- fine sea salt1/2 tsp
- baking powder1/2 tsp
- vanilla extract1/2 tsp
- ice-cold water3/4 cup
- neutral oil4 cup
Method
- 01
Fan the bananas to maximize the crispy surface area.
Place a peeled banana flat on a cutting board. Make 3 to 4 lengthwise slices starting from the bottom tip, stopping about half an inch before the stem end. Gently press to fan out the slices like a hand of cards.
- 02
Whisk the dry ingredients to form the batter base.
In a large bowl, whisk together the rice flour, all-purpose flour, tapioca starch, sugar, salt, and baking powder.
- 03
Shock the batter with ice-cold water.
Add the vanilla, then gradually pour in the ice-cold water, whisking gently until it reaches the consistency of heavy cream. Keep the batter cold and do not overmix; the chill prevents gluten from forming, ensuring a brittle crust.
- 04
Heat the oil in a deep wok or Dutch oven.
Pour the neutral oil to a depth of at least 2 inches and heat over medium-high until it reaches 350°F. A drop of batter should sink slightly, then violently bubble to the surface.
- 05
Dip and fry the bananas in small batches.
Holding the banana by the uncut stem, plunge it into the batter, ensuring it coats between the fanned slices. Let excess drip off, then gently drop it away from you into the hot oil. Fry 3 to 4 at a time to keep the temperature stable.
- 06
Employ the single-flip rule.
Do not endlessly agitate the bananas. Let them fry undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until the bottom crust is rigid and deep golden brown. Perform a single, confident flip and fry the other side for 2 to 3 minutes more.
- 07
Drain on a wire rack and serve immediately.
Paper towels will trap steam and ruin the crunch. Move the fried bananas to a wire rack over a baking sheet and eat them while they are screaming hot.
Notes
Grandma's Secret: Kapur Sirih
In Indonesia, the secret to a crust that stays shattering-crisp all day on a humid street corner is a microscopic pinch of kapur sirih (edible slaked lime). It alters the pH, causing brilliant browning and a rigid crust. If you can find it at an Asian market, dissolve 1/8 teaspoon in a drop of water and use it instead of the baking powder.
The Rule of Fat
Never add milk or coconut milk to this batter. Fats coat the starches and inhibit the formation of a rigid crust, resulting in a pisang goreng that becomes soggy almost immediately as it cools.