Pipián Verde Oaxaqueño con Pollo

Before you start

• Clean the tomatillos.

  Tomatillos come encased in a papery husk and are covered in a sticky residue that must be thoroughly rinsed away under warm water before cooking.

Ingredients

• bone-in skinless chicken thighs2 lb
• white onion3/4 med
• garlic4 small clove
• kosher salt1 tsp
• raw hulled pumpkin seeds1 cup
• raw sesame seeds1/4 cup
• whole cloves4
• black peppercorns1/2 tsp
• cumin seeds1/2 tsp
• fresh tomatillos1 lb
• poblano peppers2 med
• serrano pepper1 med
• fresh cilantro1 cup
• fresh hoja santa leaves2 large
• neutral cooking oil2 tbsp

Method

1. 01

   Poach the chicken to create a quick, rich broth.

   In a large heavy pot, combine the chicken thighs, the half onion, two cloves of garlic, one teaspoon of salt, and enough water to cover the chicken by an inch. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 25 to 30 minutes until tender. Transfer the chicken to a plate to keep warm, and strain the broth into a bowl—you will need about three cups of this liquid gold for the sauce.

2. 02

   Toast the seeds and spices in a dry pan.

   Heat a dry skillet over medium-low heat and add the pumpkin seeds, stirring constantly. After 3 to 5 minutes, they will begin to puff up and audibly pop; as soon as they smell nutty and turn lightly golden, immediately transfer them to a cool plate so they don't turn bitter. Toast the sesame seeds, cloves, peppercorns, and cumin in the same skillet for about one minute until fragrant, then add them to the plate.

3. 03

   Sear the vegetables to soften their raw edge.

   In the same skillet, add a tiny splash of oil and raise the heat to medium. Add the tomatillos, poblano, serrano, the remaining quarter onion, and the final two cloves of garlic. Sear them, turning occasionally, until the tomatillos soften and turn from a bright, opaque green to a dull olive green.

4. 04

   Blend the toasted seeds before adding the wet ingredients.

   Transfer the cooled seeds and spices to your blender and grind them into a fine powder first. Add the softened tomatillo mixture directly into the blender along with the fresh cilantro, hoja santa, and one cup of the warm reserved chicken broth. Blend on high until the mixture is vibrantly green and incredibly smooth, adding another splash of broth if the blades struggle.

5. 05

   Fry the green puree in hot oil.

   Place your large pot back on the stove over medium-high heat and add two tablespoons of oil or lard. Once the fat is shimmering hot, pour the green puree directly into the pot—it will splatter aggressively. Stir constantly for 3 to 5 minutes as the sauce thickens and deepens in color, cooking out the raw flavors of the herbs and tomatillos.

6. 06

   Simmer the sauce and warm the chicken.

   Stir in 1 to 1 1/2 cups of the remaining chicken broth until the pipián reaches the consistency of heavy cream. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally so the ground seeds don't scorch the bottom of the pot. Season aggressively with salt, add the warm chicken thighs back in to coat, and serve immediately.

Notes

• Sourcing the herbs.

  Hoja santa gives Oaxacan pipián its signature anise and sarsaparilla aroma. If you cannot find it or epazote at your local Latin market, do not let that stop you. Add an extra half cup of cilantro and a handful of mild greens like spinach or radish leaves to maintain the bright emerald color.

• Respect the splatter.

  Frying the blended puree is the single most critical step missed by modern adaptations. Dropping the sauce into hot oil stabilizes the emulsion and transforms the dish from a raw vegetable smoothie into a complex, velvety sauce.