Pesce all'Acqua Pazza
(peh-sheh ahl-ahk-wah paht-zah)
L'Arte della Conserva: The Late August Tomato Ritual
Acqua pazza isn't a delicate seafood fumet. Nineteenth-century fishermen from Campania, dodging an exorbitant salt tax, cooked their daily catch directly on their boats using nothing but seawater, garlic, and a handful of crushed tomatoes. This is the essence of cucina povera—doing a hell of a lot with very little: when the oil hisses in a 12-inch skillet, drop in a filet of cod, add straight tap water, keep the heat high, and tear off a heel of bread to drag through the cooking liquid.
Before you start
Smash the garlic.
Peel and gently smash the garlic cloves, leaving them whole so they perfume the oil without burning.
Halve the tomatoes.
Use the sweetest cherry or grape tomatoes you can find, cutting them in half to ensure their juices amalgamate with the oil and water.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- fresh garlic cloves2 med
- red pepper flakes1/4 tsp
- cherry tomatoes1 lb
- dry white wine1/2 cup
- water3/4 cup
- firm white fish fillets1 1/2 lb
- sea salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1 small bunch
- crusty artisan bread1 large loaf
Method
- 01
Awaken the aromatics in the olive oil.
In a wide, deep skillet large enough to hold the fish in a single layer, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the smashed garlic cloves and red pepper flakes, letting them sizzle gently until the garlic turns a pale, golden blonde. Do not let it brown; you are making a delicate perfume, not a harsh fry.
- 02
Blister the tomatoes to build the foundation.
Increase the heat to medium. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and a pinch of salt, tossing them in the garlicky oil. Let them cook for 3 to 4 minutes until they soften, blister slightly, and surrender their sweet juices to the pan.
- 03
Build the crazy water.
Pour in the white wine and let it bubble fiercely for a minute to cook off the alcohol. Pour in the water, bring to a gentle, rolling simmer, and let it cook uncovered for about 5 minutes so the flavors marry and the liquid takes on the rustic color of the tomatoes.
- 04
Poach the fish gently.
Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then gently lay them into the bubbling broth. The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the fish. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat to low, and let the fish steam-poach for 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of your fillets.
- 05
Check for perfect doneness.
The fish is ready the exact moment it turns opaque white and flakes easily with a gentle press of a fork.
- 06
Marry the sauce and serve.
Carefully transfer the fish to shallow bowls. Turn the heat up under the skillet for 60 seconds to bring the leftover tomato broth together, stir in the fresh parsley, and ladle generous spoonfuls of the softened tomatoes and broth directly over the fish.
Notes
Trust the ingredients, not the pantry.
Resist the American urge to overcomplicate the broth. Do not add chicken stock, onions, or butter. The water transforms into an incredible sauce simply by emulsifying with the olive oil, the tomato juices, and the savory liquids released by the fish as it cooks.
The bread is mandatory.
Serve the fish in shallow bowls with copious amounts of crusty bread to execute the scarpetta—the essential act of mopping up every last drop of the sauce.
From Cook Italian in America.