Pescado en Mole Verde Oaxaqueño
El Lenguaje del Mole (The Language of Moles)
A true green mole isn't built on toasted pumpkin seeds like the pipianes of the north. You let tomatillos blister until they split, anchor the base with earthy masa, and use a standard countertop blender to puree raw herbs, stirring them in at the last second to preserve their bright color and sharp bite. Swapping out the traditional slow-simmered pork spine for a quick-seared white fish guarantees this licorice-scented depth by Wednesday at 6 p.m., so sear the fish, drown it in the green sauce, and eat.
Ingredients
- whole cloves3
- cumin seeds1/2 tsp
- whole black peppercorns4
- fresh tomatillos1 lb
- serrano chiles2
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic cloves3
- manteca or neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- low-sodium chicken broth2 1/2 cup
- masa harina1/2 cup
- warm water3/4 cup
- fresh hoja santa leaf1 large
- fresh epazote2 sprig
- fresh cilantro1 cup
- fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley1/2 cup
- firm white fish fillets4
- olive or avocado oil1 tbsp
- kosher salt and black pepperto taste
Method
- 01
Toast the cloves, cumin, and black peppercorns in a dry, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until deeply fragrant.
This takes about 1 to 2 minutes of constant shaking. Transfer the toasted spices to a mortar or spice grinder, pulverize them to a fine powder, and set aside.
- 02
Simmer the tomatillos, serrano chiles, onion, and garlic in a pot of water for just 6 to 8 minutes.
You want the tomatillos to turn a dull, olive green but not burst. If they explode, you lose their precious pectin and acidity in the cooking water. Drain them well once done.
- 03
Transfer the boiled vegetables to a blender with the ground spices and a half-cup of the broth.
Purée on high until completely smooth.
- 04
Heat the manteca or oil in your heavy pot until shimmering, then aggressively fry the tomatillo purée.
It should sizzle violently when it hits the fat—this is a non-negotiable Mexican technique called sazonar that rapidly cooks the raw edges off the onion and emulsifies the flavors. Stir constantly for 3 to 5 minutes until it deepens in color.
- 05
Whisk the masa harina and warm water into a lump-free slurry, then whisk it into the simmering sauce along with the remaining broth.
Drop the heat to low, partially cover, and let it simmer gently for 10 to 12 minutes. The masa will gelatinize, thickening the sauce to the texture of heavy cream while cooking out the raw corn flavor. Season aggressively with salt.
- 06
Blend the hoja santa, epazote, cilantro, and parsley with a splash of water until you have a smooth, violently green paste.
Set this aside. You will add it at the very last second to preserve the delicate essential oils and vibrant chlorophyll.
- 07
Season the dried fish fillets with salt and pepper, and sear them in a hot, oiled skillet for 3 to 4 minutes per side.
You want a solid, golden Maillard crust on the outside while leaving the center perfectly opaque and flaky.
- 08
Stir the raw emerald herb paste into the gently simmering mole just two minutes before you are ready to plate.
Do not let it boil for long, or the sauce will turn a muddy, tragic brown. Let it heat through just enough to marry the flavors, then remove it from the heat almost immediately.
- 09
Place a seared fillet in a wide, shallow bowl and ladle the hot, aromatic mole verde generously over the top.
Serve immediately with warm corn tortillas to mop up every last drop of the sauce.
Notes
Don't skip the grandmother's secret: chochoyotes.
To make these traditional Oaxacan masa dumplings, mix 1/2 cup masa harina, 1/4 cup warm water, 1 tbsp melted lard, and a pinch of salt. Roll into small balls, dimple them with your thumb, and drop them into the mole during the 10-minute simmering phase so they cook through and absorb the beautiful sauce.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.