Patatas Bravas
Chapter 3: Hot Tapas
Elbow-to-elbow in the back of a Madrid tavern at midnight, the hot oil hisses, the bartender slides over a ceramic cazuela of fried potatoes, smudged paper napkins scatter across the counter. We are chasing the modern restaurant standard—impossibly crisp potatoes blanketed in a smoky, spicy red sauce, immediately cooled by a punchy, stark-white garlic alioli. We use a smart prep trick of an alkaline parboil and an overnight chill to get that glass-like crust without chaining you to a deep fryer while your guests finish the Albariño. And whatever you do, do not attempt this with generic grocery store paprika; Pimentón de la Vera is non-negotiable here. Grab a wooden toothpick and spear them while they’re still scalding.
Before you start
Boil the potatoes in alkaline water to break down their exteriors.
Bring 2 quarts of water to a rolling boil with 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and the baking soda, then drop in the cubed potatoes and boil for 8 to 10 minutes until a knife meets little resistance.
Drain and violently shake the potatoes in a colander to create a starchy paste.
Let them steam for two minutes, then vigorously toss them up and down so the softened edges smash together, coating the cubes in a mashed-potato-like slurry.
Chill the potatoes uncovered in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.
Spread them on a wire rack over a baking sheet so they don't touch; the dry air will pull out excess moisture and solidify the starchy paste into what will become your crust.
Build the salsa brava base by sautéing the onion and garlic.
Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat, cook the onion until translucent, then add the minced garlic for 30 seconds.
Bloom the pimentón off the heat to prevent it from turning bitter.
Remove the pan from the burner entirely, stir in both the sweet and hot Pimentón de la Vera for exactly 30 seconds, then return to the heat to stir in the tomato paste.
Simmer and blend the salsa brava until silky smooth.
Add the crushed tomatoes, sherry vinegar, 1 teaspoon of sugar, and the bay leaf. Simmer for 20 minutes, then remove the bay leaf and hit it with an immersion blender before refrigerating.
Emulsify the alioli using an immersion blender.
Place the roughly chopped garlic, egg, lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a tall jar. Pour the neutral and olive oils over the top, let it settle, and blend from the very bottom, slowly pulling upward until it forms a thick garlic mayonnaise.
Ingredients
- Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes2 1/2 lb
- Kosher salt1 tbsp
- baking soda1/2 tsp
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- flaky sea salt1 tsp
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic cloves3 med
- Pimentón de la Vera Dulce1 tbsp
- Pimentón de la Vera Picante1 tsp
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- crushed tomatoes14 1/2 oz
- Vinagre de Jerez1 tbsp
- granulated sugar1 tsp
- bay leaf1 med
- garlic cloves2 large
- egg1 large
- fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
- neutral oil1/2 cup
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- Kosher salt1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Preheat your oven to 450°F with a heavy baking sheet inside.
Using the convection setting if you have it ensures maximum heat circulation for a violent, fast crunch.
- 02
Toss the chilled potatoes with olive oil and dump them onto the blazing-hot baking sheet.
Coat the cold potatoes thoroughly in 1/4 cup of olive oil or duck fat, spread them onto the hot pan where they should immediately sizzle, and roast for 15 minutes.
- 03
Flip the potatoes and roast until the crust is shattering and golden-brown.
Use a thin metal spatula to unstick them, give them a turn, and roast for another 10 to 15 minutes. The alkaline starchy paste reacts with the hot oil to create a fried-like texture.
- 04
Plate the potatoes with flaky salt, warm brava sauce, and dollops of alioli.
Transfer to a wide terracotta cazuela, hit them immediately with a generous pinch of flaky sea salt, blanket partially with the smoky red sauce, and drop stark-white spoonfuls of alioli right on top to serve immediately.
Notes
Do not substitute generic grocery store paprika for Pimentón de la Vera.
The entire soul of the brava sauce relies on the profound oak-smoked depth of real D.O.P. certified Spanish paprika; generic substitutes will leave the dish flat and lifeless.
Vinagre de Jerez is essential for the correct acidic bite.
If you absolutely cannot find sherry vinegar, a high-quality red wine vinegar will survive in a pinch, but never use balsamic or standard white vinegar.