Pastitsio tis Katsarolas
Παστίτσιο της κατσαρόλας·(pah-STEE-tsee-oh tees kaht-sah-ROH-lahs)
To Kiriakatiko Trapezi: The Sunday Supper & Sto Fourno
This isn't a three-hour Sunday project, a towering architecture of tubular pasta, heavily spiced meat, and thick béchamel. When you want the smell of toasted cinnamon and browned meat filling the hallway on a rainy Tuesday, forty-five minutes in a heavy Dutch oven is all it takes for thick No. 2 macaroni to absorb the bubbling meat sauce. The pasta cooks directly in the cinnamon-laced meat broth, releasing starches that combine with a quick milk slurry to form a velvety sauce coating every noodle. No layering, no baking. Throw in a heavy handful of grated Kefalotyri and serve the starchy noodles straight from the pot.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- lean ground beef1 lb
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic2 clove
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- dry red wine1/2 cup
- ground cinnamon1 tsp
- ground nutmeg1/4 tsp
- ground cloves1/8 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- water or low-sodium beef broth4 cup
- ziti or ditalini pasta1 lb
- whole milk1 cup
- cornstarch2 tbsp
- Pecorino Romano cheese1/2 cup
- unsalted butter1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Brown the meat.
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or deep, wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef, let it sear undisturbed for a minute, then break it up with a wooden spoon and cook until no longer pink, about 5 to 7 minutes.
- 02
Soften the aromatics.
Add the diced onion and minced garlic to the beef. Sauté for another 3 to 4 minutes until the onions soften.
- 03
Toast the tomato paste and bloom the spices.
Push the meat mixture to the edges of the pot and drop the tomato paste directly into the center. Let it toast for 1 minute until it darkens slightly to remove the raw, metallic taste. Stir in the cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, salt, and pepper.
- 04
Deglaze the pan.
Pour in the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to release any browned bits. Let it bubble away until the liquid has almost entirely evaporated.
- 05
Boil the pasta directly in the sauce.
Pour the water or broth into the pot and bring it to a rolling boil. Stir in the uncooked pasta. Reduce the heat to medium, cover tightly, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente and a thick, starchy sauce remains at the bottom.
- 06
Mix the faux-béchamel slurry.
While the pasta cooks, vigorously whisk the cold milk and cornstarch together in a small bowl until completely dissolved.
- 07
Emulsify the sauce.
Once the pasta is done, pour the milk slurry directly into the pot. Stir constantly over medium-low heat for 1 to 2 minutes until the liquid instantly transforms into a thick, glossy, creamy sauce.
- 08
Finish and serve.
Remove the pot from the heat. Fold in the freshly grated Pecorino Romano and the butter. Taste for seasoning, then serve immediately in wide bowls showered with extra cheese.
Notes
Cinnamon is non-negotiable.
Unlike Italian meat sauces, Greek kimas relies heavily on warm baking spices. Do not skip the cinnamon; it is the definitive flavor of the dish.
The pasta substitution is purely practical.
Authentic baked pastitsio uses long, thick, hollow tubes (Macaronia No. 2), but they are messy and difficult to stir in a pot. Ziti is the perfect American supermarket alternative because its hollow center traps the creamy, meaty sauce flawlessly.
Do not use pre-grated parmesan.
Pecorino Romano is the closest domestic match to Greek Kefalotyri due to its sharp, salty, sheep's milk tang. Buy a wedge and grate it yourself—the anti-caking agents in shaker cheese will ruin the creamy finish of your sauce.
From Cook Greek in America.