Pastina in Brodo Classica
(pah-STEE-nah een BROH-doh)
La Cura: The Healing Bowl and Sick Day Comforts
There is no ailment, physical or spiritual, that a bowl of pastina cannot fix. For the children of the Italian diaspora, this is the ultimate matriarchal prescription: a deeply savory, velvety porridge born of pure pragmatism. When a Tuesday night leaves you battered and a traditional three-hour broth is out of the question, the grandmother's secret lies in quick fortification. By steeping a Parmigiano-Reggiano rind in good boxed broth, then vigorously tempering an egg and cold butter off the heat, a simple soup transforms into a rich, glossy embrace. No Hollywood nonsense, just the unpretentious, restorative magic of home.
Before you start
Prep your emulsion ingredients ahead of time.
Have the Parmigiano-Reggiano finely grated and the butter cold before you begin cooking, as the final emulsification moves very quickly off the heat.
Ingredients
- low-sodium chicken broth4 cup
- Parmigiano-Reggiano rind1 med
- pastina1 cup
- egg1 large
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1/3 cup
- unsalted butter1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 pinch
- black pepper1 pinch
Method
- 01
Fortify the broth.
Pour the chicken broth into a medium saucepan, drop in the Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Let it simmer for 5 to 10 minutes to extract the rind's aged umami.
- 02
Cook the pastina directly in the liquid.
Remove and discard the rind. Add a pinch of salt and stir in the pastina immediately so it does not stick, then lower the heat to a steady simmer and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until tender and starchy like a wet risotto.
- 03
Prepare the egg and cheese shield.
While the pasta bubbles, vigorously whisk the egg and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano together in a small bowl until it forms a thick, pale paste.
- 04
Drop the temperature and temper the egg.
Remove the saucepan entirely from the heat, stir in the cold butter to cool the pot slightly, then quickly whisk a spoonful of the hot broth into the egg mixture.
- 05
Emulsify the sauce.
Pour the tempered egg back into the pot, stirring vigorously and constantly so the residual heat creates a glossy, velvety sauce without scrambling the egg proteins.
- 06
Serve immediately.
Ladle the hot pastina into warm bowls, hit it with freshly cracked black pepper, and eat it on the couch.
Notes
Select the right pasta shape.
Pastina is a category of tiny pasta; look for Stelline or Acini di pepe in the pasta aisle to achieve the correct texture. Orzo works in a pinch.
Avoid pre-grated cheese at all costs.
The anti-caking cellulose in shaker-can parmesan will entirely ruin the emulsion, causing the cheese to clump rather than melt.
Respect the tempering process.
Dropping a cold egg directly into boiling broth will result in scrambled egg whites rather than the unified, velvety sauce this dish requires.
From Cook Italian in America.