Pasta e Ceci alla Romana
Cucina Povera on a Tuesday: Grandma's Weeknight Survival Guide
Growing up, the smell of garlic and rosemary sizzling in olive oil meant comfort was only thirty minutes away. This is Pasta e Ceci—a masterpiece of Roman cucina povera. While some regions treat this as a brothy vegetable soup, Roman grandmothers rely on a brilliant, uncompromising secret: they melt anchovies into the hot oil for an explosive, savory depth, then blend a scoop of the chickpeas to make the broth impossibly velvety. It doesn't taste like fish; it tastes like history, survival, and the real taste of home. Leveraging canned chickpeas makes this ancient culinary wisdom entirely achievable on a busy Tuesday night.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- garlic cloves2 large
- fresh rosemary sprig1 large
- fresh rosemary leaves1 tsp
- oil-packed anchovy fillets4 med
- crushed red pepper flakes1/4 tsp
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- canned chickpeas30 oz
- low-sodium vegetable broth4 cup
- ditalini or broken spaghetti8 oz
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- pecorino romanoto taste
Method
- 01
Start the aromatics in cold oil to build the foundation without burning the garlic.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, combine the olive oil, smashed garlic, whole rosemary sprig, chopped rosemary, anchovies, and red pepper flakes over medium-low heat. As the oil warms and begins to sizzle, use a wooden spoon to smash the anchovies until they dissolve completely into the oil, infusing it with deep umami.
- 02
Toast the tomato paste to balance the savory depths with a sweet acidity.
Stir the tomato paste into the fragrant oil for about one minute until it darkens slightly and loses its raw edge.
- 03
Sauté the chickpeas and blend a portion for the signature creamy texture.
Add the drained chickpeas, tossing them in the oil for two minutes to absorb the aromas. Scoop out about one cup of the chickpeas, blend them with a splash of warm broth until smooth, and return the purée to the main pot.
- 04
Cook the pasta directly in the stew to release its starches into the broth.
Pour in the remaining warm broth, bring to a gentle boil, and discard the whole garlic and bare rosemary stem. Taste for salt, then stir in the dry pasta. Simmer until al dente, stirring frequently so it doesn't stick, adding a splash of hot water if the stew gets too dry.
- 05
Let the pot rest before serving to achieve the perfect dense consistency.
Turn off the heat and let the stew sit for a few minutes; it will continue to thicken as it rests. Serve in warm bowls with a heavy drizzle of raw olive oil, cracked black pepper, and a dusting of Pecorino Romano if you like.
From Cook Italian in America.