Pasta c'Anciova e Muddica Atturrata
(PAH-stah kahn-CHO-vah eh moo-DEE-kah aht-too-RAH-tah)
La Dispensa: The Sicilian-American Pantry Essentials
This isn't a precious Sunday feast. It is Tuesday night triage, the survival cooking of the Sicilian working class where grandmothers worked straight from humble cans and jars: coaxing a tin of flat anchovies to surrender completely into hot olive oil, and taking the time to slowly toast stale breadcrumbs into a crunchy, amber substitute for expensive cheese. To pull off this sweet, salty, deeply comforting mess of agrodolce perfection, stare into the hot skillet until the anchovies dissolve, keep a wooden spoon moving, and pull the pan off the heat the second those crumbs smell toasted.
Ingredients
- plain dry breadcrumbs1 cup
- extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- kosher salt1 pinch
- mafalde or bucatini pasta1 lb
- dark raisins1/3 cup
- extra-virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- white onion1/2 small
- garlic1 large clove
- oil-packed anchovy fillets8
- double-concentrated tomato paste1/2 cup
- pine nuts1/4 cup
- black pepper1 pinch
Method
- 01
Plump the raisins in a small bowl of warm water.
Let them soak for 10 to 15 minutes to reconstitute them, ensuring bursts of sweetness in the final dish, then drain well before using.
- 02
Toast the breadcrumbs in a skillet with olive oil and salt over medium-low heat.
Stir constantly until they reach a deep, golden amber color and smell intensely nutty, then immediately transfer them to a cool bowl so they do not burn.
- 03
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven and gently sauté the minced onion.
Cook the onion over medium-low heat for about 5 to 7 minutes until completely translucent, being careful not to let it brown, then add the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
- 04
Push the alliums to the edges and mash the anchovies into the center of the hot oil.
Use the back of a wooden spoon to press them into the oil until they completely dissolve into a savory, aromatic liquid—this usually takes about 2 to 3 minutes.
- 05
Fry the tomato paste in the anchovy oil, then loosen it into a sauce with warm water.
Squeeze the paste into the skillet, fry for 1 minute to deepen the flavor, then vigorously stir in 1 cup of warm water to create a thick, glossy base.
- 06
Stir the drained raisins, pine nuts, and black pepper into the sauce and simmer gently.
Reduce the heat to low, cover, and let the flavors marry for 10 to 15 minutes. Taste before adding any salt, as the anchovies and tomato paste bring plenty of their own.
- 07
Cook the pasta to al dente, reserve a little water, and toss it directly in the simmering sauce.
Toss vigorously over medium heat for a minute or two, allowing the sauce to cling to the pasta. If it looks too thick, loosen it with a splash of the reserved pasta water.
- 08
Serve immediately in large bowls, heavily blanketed with the toasted breadcrumbs.
Do not mix the breadcrumbs into the pot; let them sit on top to provide that vital, crunchy contrast mimicking grated cheese.
Notes
Do not fear the anchovy.
Even the most fish-averse eaters will devour this dish. Once the anchovies melt into the oil and tomato paste, they cease to be a fish and become pure, savory seasoning.