Passatelli in Brodo
Passatelli in Brodo·(pah-sah-TELL-ee een BROH-doh)
La Cura: The Healing Bowl and Sick Day Comforts
In Emilia-Romagna, when the winter wind howls or a cold takes hold, grandmothers do not reach for a can of soup. They reach for a hunk of stale bread and a block of Parmigiano. Passatelli is the ultimate expression of Italian peasant ingenuity, transforming pantry scraps into delicate, savory dumplings that taste like a warm embrace. There are no fancy tricks here, just the profound magic of patience. You must let the dough rest so the dry bread fully absorbs the eggs and cheese. It is the single difference between a cloudy, broken mess and the perfectly resilient, melt-in-your-mouth comfort that has sustained Italian families for generations.
Ingredients
- low-sodium chicken broth8 cup
- chicken drumsticks4 med
- carrot1 large
- celery stalk1 med
- yellow onion1/2 med
- Parmigiano-Reggiano rind1 med
- unseasoned fine breadcrumbs1 1/4 cup
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1 1/2 cup
- eggs3 large
- nutmeg1/4 tsp
- lemon1/2 med
- kosher salt1 pinch
Method
- 01
Combine the dry ingredients.
In a wide mixing bowl, toss the fine breadcrumbs, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, nutmeg, and lemon zest together until the aromatics are evenly distributed.
- 02
Bind the dough.
Create a well in the center of the dry mix and crack in the eggs. Beat them gently with a fork, gradually pulling in the dry ingredients before digging in with your hands. Knead vigorously until the mixture forms a firm, slightly rough, but cohesive ball.
- 03
Let the dough rest.
Wrap the ball tightly in plastic wrap and leave it on the counter for at least an hour. Do not skip this; the resting process allows the bread to fully hydrate, which keeps the dumplings from disintegrating in the pot.
- 04
Fortify the broth.
While the dough rests, simmer the boxed chicken broth with the drumsticks, carrot, celery, onion, and cheese rind for about an hour to fake a rich, all-day homemade mouthfeel. Strain the broth into a clean pot, discard the solids, and keep the liquid at a gentle, rolling simmer.
- 05
Extrude the passatelli.
Load half the rested dough into a sturdy stainless-steel potato ricer. Press the handles together firmly directly over the simmering broth, using a paring knife to slice the extruded strands flush with the ricer when they reach about two inches long. Repeat with the remaining dough.
- 06
Wait for the float.
Resist the urge to stir, which will tear the delicate dumplings apart. Let them cook entirely undisturbed for a minute or two until they puff up and bob to the surface, signaling the egg proteins have set.
- 07
Rest and serve.
Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let them plump in the hot broth for a few minutes before ladling into warm bowls with an extra pinch of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Notes
The ricer rule.
Use a heavy stainless-steel potato ricer with large holes. Plastic versions will inevitably snap under the immense pressure required to extrude this dense dough.
The breadcrumb mandate.
Use plain, lean breadcrumbs devoid of added oils, dairy, or Italian seasonings. Fat interferes with the binding matrix and will ruin the texture of the dumplings.
Troubleshooting the dough.
If the dough absolutely refuses to come together, add a teaspoon of cold broth. If it feels overly sticky, add a light dusting of breadcrumbs and cheese. Never add flour.
From Cook Italian in America.