Pao Jiao Ji Ding
泡椒鸡丁·(pào jiāo jī dīng)
The Mother Brine (Pao Cai)
Tuesday at six p.m., the hot oil hisses as you toss chopped chicken thighs into a smoking carbon-steel wok, joining a scoop of pao jiao that once sat quietly in a corner crock bubbling with lactic acid. Built around the sharp acidity of that mother brine, Pao Jiao Ji Ding skips the heavy funk of fermented bean pastes that weigh down restaurant versions; it is pure and bright, relying entirely on the fruity heat of pickled chilies and a splash of their own liquid to deglaze the pan. Have your rice steamed before you fire the burner.
Before you start
Pre-mix the finishing sauce.
Things move incredibly fast at the end. Have the chicken broth, vinegar, teaspoon of soy sauce, sugar, and half-teaspoon of cornstarch mixed in a small bowl, ready to pour.
Cut everything to uniform size.
The chicken and the bell pepper must both be cut into half-inch pieces so they cook evenly and rapidly on a standard residential burner. Irregular pieces lead to rubbery chicken.
Ingredients
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1 lb
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- Shaoxing rice wine1 tbsp
- cornstarch1 tbsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- neutral cooking oil3 tbsp
- Sichuan pickled chilies1/2 cup
- pickled chili brine1 1/2 tbsp
- garlic3 med clove
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- scallions3 med
- whole Sichuan peppercorns1/4 tsp
- green bell pepper1 small
- chicken broth2 tbsp
- white vinegar1 tsp
- light soy sauce1 tsp
- sugar1/2 tsp
- cornstarch1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Velvet the chicken to lock in moisture.
In a bowl, vigorously massage the chicken cubes with the first tablespoon of light soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, salt, and first tablespoon of cornstarch for about 60 seconds until the liquid is entirely absorbed and the meat feels tacky. Stir in the first tablespoon of neutral oil to coat, sealing the marinade, and let it rest on the counter for 15 to 20 minutes.
- 02
Pass the chicken through hot oil.
Heat a heavy flat-bottomed skillet or wok over high heat until it begins to lightly smoke, then swirl in the remaining 3 tablespoons of neutral oil. Drop in the chicken, let it sear untouched for 10 seconds, then stir-fry vigorously for a minute or two until just opaque on the outside but still raw in the center. Immediately scoop the chicken out with a slotted spoon, leaving the fragrant oil behind in the pan.
- 03
Coax the flavor from the aromatics.
Lower the heat to medium. Drop the Sichuan peppercorns into the residual oil for 5 seconds, followed by the ginger, garlic, and scallions for another 15 seconds. Toss in the chopped pickled chilies and stir-fry slowly for about 45 seconds until the oil turns a bright, vibrant hue and a sharp, acidic aroma fills the kitchen.
- 04
Recombine the elements.
Crank the heat back to high and return the par-cooked chicken to the pan along with the green bell pepper diamonds. Toss everything together for 30 seconds, allowing the meat to absorb the chili-infused oil.
- 05
Lock it all together with the mother brine.
Give your finishing sauce (the broth, vinegar, second teaspoon of soy sauce, sugar, and half-teaspoon of cornstarch) a quick stir and pour it into the pan alongside the reserved pickled chili brine. Toss rapidly for 30 to 45 seconds as the liquid hits the hot pan, tightens into a glossy glaze, and clings tightly to the chicken, then immediately pull it from the heat and serve with steamed white rice.
Notes
Mind the brine.
The age and brand of your pickled chilies dictate the dish's acidity. Taste the brine before cooking; if it's fiercely sour, bump up the sugar in the finishing sauce by an extra half teaspoon. If it lacks punch, a splash more white vinegar off the heat restores the balance.
Leave the doubanjiang on the shelf.
Many shortcuts lean on fermented broad bean paste for color and umami. Don't do it. The heavy funk crushes the bright, delicate tang of the lactic acid that makes this specific dish sing.
Manage the heat of a standard stove.
Traditional wok cooking relies on jet-engine BTUs, but a flat-bottomed carbon steel or stainless skillet maximizes surface contact for home electric or gas stoves. If the pan loses heat when you add the chicken and the meat begins to boil in its own juices, remove it immediately, let the pan recover its heat, and proceed in batches.
From Cook Sichuan in America.