Pao Jiao Ji Ding
泡椒鸡丁·(pào jiāo jī dīng)
The Mother Brine: Pao Cai
Before the numbing hammer of mala conquered the globe, the soul of the Sichuan home kitchen lived in its pickle crocks. This dish is a monument to the mother brine, relying entirely on the fruity, lactic tang of fermented chilies rather than heavy bean pastes or sticky takeout glazes. It's practical, fast, and exactly how a grandmother would make it on a Tuesday night. Leave the doubanjiang in the pantry; we're keeping this pure.
Before you start
Velvet the chicken.
In a mixing bowl, vigorously massage the chicken cubes with 1 tablespoon light soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon cornstarch until the liquid is entirely absorbed and the meat feels tacky. Stir in 1 tablespoon of neutral oil to seal it, and let it sit on the counter for 15 to 20 minutes.
Whisk the finishing sauce.
In a small bowl, combine the chicken broth, white vinegar, 1 teaspoon light soy sauce, sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch.
Ingredients
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1 lb
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- Shaoxing rice wine1 tbsp
- cornstarch1 tbsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- neutral cooking oil3 tbsp
- Sichuan pickled chilies1/2 cup
- pickled chili brine1 1/2 tbsp
- garlic3 med clove
- fresh ginger1 inch
- scallion3 med
- whole Sichuan peppercorns15
- celery2 stalk
- chicken broth2 tbsp
- white vinegar1 tsp
- light soy sauce1 tsp
- sugar1/2 tsp
- cornstarch1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Pass the chicken through the oil.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or flat-bottomed wok over high heat until lightly smoking, then swirl in the 3 tablespoons of neutral oil. Add the velveted chicken, let it sear untouched for 10 seconds, then vigorously stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes until just opaque on the outside (about 70 percent cooked), and immediately remove it with a slotted spoon.
- 02
Bloom the aromatics.
Lower the heat to medium, add the Sichuan peppercorns to the remaining oil, and let them sizzle for 5 seconds. Add the ginger, garlic, and scallion whites, tossing for 15 seconds, then add the chopped pickled chilies and stir-fry slowly for 45 seconds to coax their bright, acidic oils into the pan.
- 03
Recombine and flash fry.
Crank the heat back to high and return the chicken to the pan along with the celery diamonds. Toss everything together for 30 seconds so the chicken absorbs the chili oil.
- 04
Lock in the flavor with the mother brine.
Give your finishing sauce a quick stir to re-incorporate the cornstarch, then pour it into the pan along with the reserved 1 1/2 tablespoons of pickled chili brine. Toss rapidly for 30 to 45 seconds as the intoxicating, sour-spicy steam billows up and the sauce tightens into a glossy coating, then transfer to a plate and serve immediately.
Notes
Skip the bean paste.
Many modern recipes try to boost this dish with a scoop of Pixian doubanjiang, but its heavy, earthy funk will completely obliterate the delicate, bright acidity of the pickled chilies.
Manage your heat.
Standard American stoves lack the BTUs of commercial wok burners. If your pan loses heat when the chicken goes in and starts boiling in its own juices, pull the meat out immediately, let the pan recover, and cook in batches.
Taste your brine.
The age of your pickled chilies dictates the dish's acidity. If your brine is aggressively sour, add an extra 1/2 teaspoon of sugar to the finishing sauce; if it's lacking punch, add a splash more white vinegar right at the end.
From Cook Sichuan in America.