Panrakhash
Պանրխաշ·(pahn-ruh-KHASH)
Zartnir (The Armenian Morning)
If you grew up Armenian, the smell of onions slowly turning golden in a pool of butter is the ultimate trigger of culinary nostalgia. Panrakhash is essentially an inside-out grilled cheese, born out of necessity in the freezing winters of Gyumri. Forget the modern restaurant casseroles; true panrakhash is a communal, table-side ritual requiring no baking at all. You just tear up dry lavash and string cheese, drown it in buttery onions, and hit it with boiling water from the kettle to create a rich, gooey masterpiece.
Before you start
Dry out your lavash.
Fresh, pliant bread will disintegrate into mush when the water hits it. Leaving store-bought lavash out on the counter for a few hours, or baking it at 200°F for 5 minutes, is the most important step in this dish.
Ingredients
- thin Armenian lavash4 large
- Armenian Chechil or low-moisture string cheese8 oz
- yellow onion1 large
- unsalted butter or ghee5 tbsp
- boiling water1 1/2 cup
- black pepper1 pinch
Method
- 01
Prepare the sokharats.
In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the diced onion and sauté slowly for 8 to 10 minutes until soft, fragrant, and a rich golden brown.
- 02
Tear the bread.
Tear your dried lavash into rough, bite-sized squares. The bread must be brittle, otherwise it will dissolve into a paste later.
- 03
Build the layers.
Set out two deep, heat-proof soup bowls. Alternate handfuls of the dry lavash and shredded cheese three or four times, ensuring the top layer is a generous mound of cheese.
- 04
Execute the pour.
Bring your kettle to a rolling boil. Spoon half of the golden, buttery onions over each stacked bowl, then immediately pour about 3/4 cup of boiling water into each, just below the top layer.
- 05
Steep to melt.
Instantly cover each bowl with a snug-fitting plate to trap the steam. Let them sit undisturbed on the table for exactly 3 minutes.
- 06
Uncover and eat.
Remove the plates, gently drain any excessive liquid if you prefer, and top with black pepper. Eat immediately while pulling massive, glorious strings of cheese.
Notes
Recreating authentic Chechil.
If you can't find Armenian braided string cheese at a Middle Eastern market, pull apart standard low-moisture mozzarella string cheese and toss it with 2 tablespoons of crumbled feta for that authentic salty funk.
From Cook Armenian in America.