Pan-Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with XO Sauce
XO醬炒腸粉·(XO jiàng chǎo chángfěn)
Chapter 4: Char Siu, Fillings & The Tea Sauce Repertoire
The rice noodle roll is the ultimate test of kitchen thermodynamics. You are essentially willing a liquid wrapper into existence. We use a precise matrix of starches—rice flour for the soul, wheat starch for crystalline clarity, and tapioca for that elusive bounce. Let the fresh rolls cool, then violently sear them in a blistering wok. Tossed in XO sauce—that luxurious, scallop-heavy invention of 1980s Hong Kong—a delicate, steamed morning carb becomes a roaring, umami-bomb centerpiece.
Before you start
Source the right flours.
Do not substitute standard rice flour with glutinous or sweet rice flour, or the batter will melt into a gummy paste upon steaming.
Find the perfect steaming vessel.
A metal brownie pan works brilliantly for the home cook, provided it fits completely inside your wok with enough room for steam to circulate.
Ingredients
- rice flour1 cup
- wheat starch1/4 cup
- tapioca starch1/4 cup
- filtered water2 1/2 cup
- fine sea salt1/2 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- peanut oil3 tbsp
- eggs2 large
- silver bean sprouts1 cup
- yellow chives1/2 cup
- garlic1 tbsp
- premium XO sauce3 tbsp
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- dark soy sauce1 tsp
- toasted sesame seeds1 tsp
Method
- 01
Hydrate the starch matrix.
Whisk the rice flour, wheat starch, tapioca starch, and salt with the water until perfectly smooth. Let it sit for 30 minutes at room temperature so the starches fully homogenize. Whisk in the neutral oil right before cooking.
- 02
Calibrate your steamer.
Bring a large wok or multi-tiered steaming rig to a violent, rolling boil over a perfectly level burner.
- 03
Preheat and lightly grease a flat steaming tray.
Wipe the inside of an 8x8 or 9x13-inch flat metal pan with a microscopic layer of oil, then place the empty pan in the steamer for 60 seconds.
- 04
Agitate the batter and pour a paper-thin layer.
Starches sink fast, so vigorously whisk the batter before immediately ladling just enough into the hot pan to completely coat the bottom.
- 05
Steam aggressively without lifting the lid.
Return the pan to the steamer, cover instantly, and let it go on high for 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. Peeking causes a loss of pressure that will crack and ruin the delicate sheet.
- 06
Peel and tightly roll the noodle sheet.
Remove the pan, run a plastic dough scraper along the edges, and systematically coax the sheet into a tight cylinder. Transfer to an oiled plate and repeat with the remaining batter.
- 07
Let the freshly steamed rolls cool and set.
They must firm up before hitting the wok or they will turn to mush. Once cool, slice them on an oblique bias into 1 1/2-inch pieces.
- 08
Fry and slice the egg crepe.
Heat a wok over medium-high heat with 1 tablespoon of peanut oil. Swirl the beaten eggs into a thin crepe, cook until just set, then remove, slice into ribbons, and set aside.
- 09
Blister the noodles undisturbed.
Wipe the wok, return to high heat with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, and lay the noodles down without overlapping or stirring. Let them sear for 2 to 3 minutes until a golden crust forms, then gently flip.
- 10
Integrate the aromatics and sprouts.
Push the rolls to the side, drop the garlic into the center until fragrant, then toss in the bean sprouts and yellow chives, agitating rapidly for 30 seconds.
- 11
Glaze violently over high heat.
Drizzle in the light and dark soy sauces to coat the noodles in a rich mahogany. Fold in the sliced egg and the XO sauce, tossing everything over the roaring flame for a final 30 seconds before garnishing with sesame seeds.
Notes
On resting the rolls.
You can steam and roll the noodles a day in advance. Store them tightly covered in the refrigerator and slice them just before searing to achieve the best crust.
The cart-service experience.
To serve this with a full dim sum spread, reverse-engineer your timeline. Steam your dumplings straight from frozen, then fire up the wok for the noodles so everything hits the table simultaneously.
From Cook Dim Sum at Home.