Opor Ayam

Opor Ayam

(oh-por ah-yahm)

The Secret Weapon: Bumbu Dasar (The Mother Pastes)

Scrape the bumbu dasar into a heavy Dutch oven, listen as the hot oil hisses, and let the bruised lemongrass take over the room. The white spice paste of pounded shallots and ground candlenuts provides the foundation, a local Javanese innovation that thickens the stew. Building that profound comfort of home requires forty minutes of gentle, unbroken simmering. Drop the heat to a simmer. Respect the coconut milk, don't let it boil into a broken, greasy mess, and let the pot do the work.

Before you start

  • Toasting your nuts and spices is non-negotiable.

    Raw nuts will make the paste taste chalky, and raw coriander tastes dusty. Taking three minutes to toast them in a dry skillet fundamentally alters the chemical flavor profile and unlocks a restaurant-quality aroma.

  • Prep the coconut milk carefully.

    Buy full-fat canned coconut milk without emulsifiers and do not shake the can. Scoop the thick cream off the top to reserve for the delicate emulsion at the end of the cook, and use the watery liquid at the bottom for the initial braise.

Ingredients

  • bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks2 1/2 lb
  • lime juice1 tbsp
  • kosher salt1 tsp
  • shallots8 med
  • garlic5 med cloves
  • macadamia nuts4 large
  • whole coriander seeds1 tbsp
  • whole white peppercorns1/2 tsp
  • ground cumin1/2 tsp
  • neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
  • water2 tbsp
  • fresh lemongrass stalks2 med
  • fresh or frozen galangal1 med piece
  • Indonesian bay leaves3 med
  • makrut lime leaves4 med
  • full-fat coconut milk13 1/2 oz
  • low-sodium chicken broth2 cup
  • palm sugar1 tbsp
  • fried shallots1/2 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Prep the chicken to remove any gamey odors.

    In a large bowl, toss the chicken pieces with the lime juice and kosher salt. Let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse briefly and pat perfectly dry with paper towels.

  2. 02

    Create the Bumbu Dasar Putih mother paste.

    In a food processor or blender, combine the shallots, garlic, toasted macadamia nuts, toasted coriander seeds, white peppercorns, cumin, neutral oil, and water. Blend until it forms a very smooth, pale paste.

  3. 03

    Sauté the paste to bloom the spices.

    Heat a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the blended paste and sauté, stirring constantly, for 5 to 7 minutes until the water evaporates, the oil begins to separate, and the raw onion aroma transforms into something deeply sweet. Toss in the bruised lemongrass, galangal, Indonesian bay leaves, and makrut lime leaves, cooking for 1 to 2 minutes to release their essential oils.

  4. 04

    Sear the chicken without browning it.

    Push the spices to the side, increase the heat slightly, and stir in the chicken pieces. Cook just until the exterior turns opaque and loses its raw pink color, about 4 minutes.

  5. 05

    Braise in the thin liquid.

    Pour the watery coconut liquid from the bottom of your unshaken can into the pot, followed by the chicken broth. Bring to a gentle boil, immediately drop the heat to a low simmer, and stir in the palm sugar. Leave the pot uncovered and braise gently for 30 to 35 minutes until the chicken is completely tender.

  6. 06

    Emulsify the thick coconut cream.

    Turn the heat down to the absolute lowest setting and pour in the reserved thick coconut cream. Do not step away from the stove; stir the pot gently and continuously in a figure-eight motion for 5 to 7 minutes to melt the cream into a luxurious, velvety sauce without letting it split or boil.

  7. 07

    Season, rest, and serve.

    Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed. Turn off the heat and let the dish rest for at least 15 minutes so the flavors marry. Serve in deep bowls over steamed jasmine rice, generously showered with crispy fried shallots.

Notes

  • The yellow turmeric pivot is an easy switch.

    If you grew up eating Opor Ayam Kuning, simply add 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder to the blender when making the mother paste to transform it into Bumbu Dasar Kuning.

  • Do not substitute European bay leaves for Daun Salam.

    European bay leaves impart a pot-roast menthol note that ruins the dish. If you cannot find earthy Daun Salam at a well-stocked Asian market, omit it entirely.

From Cook Indonesian in America.

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