Omlet-e Gojeh Farangi
املت گوجه فرنگی·(om-let-eh go-jeh fah-rahn-gee)
Sobhaneh: The Persian Morning Rhythm
Drop grated tomatoes into a hot 10-inch skillet, letting them hiss and blister until the oil runs red. The true Iranian omelet is a bubbling skillet of savory tomatoes, caramelized onions, and eggs softly scrambled directly into the pan. This ten-minute meal moves fast. It takes the raw action of grating them straight into sizzling oil and turbocharges it with the fried-paste umami of a working-class bazaar tea-house. Follow one rule: cook the tomatoes down until every last drop of water evaporates before the eggs go in, or you are making boiled eggs. Rip off warm lavash. Wipe the metal clean.
Before you start
Grate the tomatoes to remove their skins and create a uniform pulp.
Cut each tomato in half and grate the flesh on the large holes of a box grater until only the flat skin remains in your hand, then discard the skins.
Ingredients
- neutral oil2 tbsp
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- yellow onion1 small
- ground turmeric1 tsp
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- ripe tomatoes1 lb
- eggs4 large
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Sauté the onion in the oil and butter until soft, translucent, and just turning golden brown.
Use a medium stainless steel or cast iron skillet over medium heat, cooking for about 6 to 8 minutes.
- 02
Bloom the turmeric and fry the tomato paste.
Sprinkle the turmeric directly over the onions and stir for 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste to the center of the pan and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly to cook out the raw flavor and dye the oil a brilliant red.
- 03
Cook down the tomatoes until every drop of liquid has completely evaporated.
Add the grated tomatoes, salt, and pepper, and turn the heat to medium-high. Let it bubble and reduce until the sizzling changes from a wet boil to a sharp crackle and the red oil pools at the edges, which takes 7 to 10 minutes.
- 04
Pour lightly broken eggs over the concentrated tomato jam.
Crack the eggs into a small bowl, barely break the yolks with a fork, and pour them into the skillet, lowering the heat to medium-low.
- 05
Gently scramble the eggs into the sauce until just set.
Let the eggs sit undisturbed for 30 seconds so the edges barely set, then gently fold them into the tomato mixture for 2 to 3 minutes until cooked through but still soft. Serve immediately right out of the skillet.
Notes
The most critical failure point is impatience during the tomato reduction.
If standing water remains when the eggs are introduced, the pan temperature plummets and the eggs boil, releasing an undesirable sulfurous odor known in Farsi as zohm.
Serve with traditional tea-house accompaniments.
Eat this hot with torn pieces of warm flatbread like barbari or sourdough, a handful of fresh herbs, and raw white onion wedges.
From Cook Persian in America.