Old-Time Salt Mackerel Run-Dung
Saturday Morning Yard Breakfast
Drop salted mackerel into the heaviest pot, letting it hiss, bubble, and roll. This isn't a careful emulsion; the explicit goal is to boil thick coconut milk hard until it completely splits and breaks, separating pure coconut oil from thick, sweet curds. The fish cuts right through that luxurious fat, spiked with fresh thyme, allspice, and the fruity warmth of a whole, un-burst Scotch bonnet pepper. They call it "Dip an' Fall Back"—a name earned from the way you'd lean away from the communal bowl to keep the rich, oily custard off your shirt. Tear off a thick hunk of hard-dough bread, drag it directly through the spiced oil, and eat.
Before you start
Desalt the mackerel.
Place the mackerel in a pot of cold water, bring it to a boil, and let simmer for 15 minutes. Drain the water and taste a small piece of the fish. It should still be salty, but not overwhelmingly so. If it's too aggressive, boil it a second time in fresh water.
Flake the fish.
Let the boiled mackerel cool, then discard the head and peel away the skin. Use your hands or a fork to flake the meat into 2-inch chunks, meticulously removing the large center bone and any pin bones you find.
Ingredients
- pickled or salted mackerel1 lb
- full-fat canned coconut milk28 oz
- scallions3 med
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic3 med clove
- ripe tomato1 med
- fresh thyme4 sprig
- whole allspice berries1/2 tsp
- Scotch bonnet pepper1 med
- white vinegar or lime juice1 tbsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Aromatize the base.
In a wide skillet over medium heat, add a tiny splash of oil and sauté the scallions, onion, garlic, and tomato until softened, about 3 minutes.
- 02
Boil the coconut milk.
Pour in the full-fat coconut milk and drop in the fresh thyme, lightly crushed allspice berries, and the whole Scotch bonnet pepper.
- 03
Run it down until it breaks.
Bring the mixture to a vigorous simmer over medium-high heat and leave it uncovered. Have patience. After about 15 minutes, the water will evaporate and the coconut milk will 'break' into thick curds frying in clear coconut oil. This separated custard is exactly what you want.
- 04
Fold in the mackerel.
Gently fold the flaked, desalted mackerel into the broken custard, being careful not to turn it into mush. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan with the lid slightly ajar, and let it simmer for 5 to 10 minutes so the briny fish permeates the sweet coconut oil.
- 05
Finish and serve.
Remove the whole Scotch bonnet and thyme stems. Stir in the vinegar and freshly cracked black pepper to cut the richness. Serve immediately with boiled green bananas, dumplings, or hard yam.
Notes
The curdle is correct.
In classic French technique, a broken sauce is a failure. In Jamaican Run-Dung, it is the goal. Do not try to whisk it back together; the oil separation is the hallmark of authenticity.
Handle the Scotch bonnet with care.
Dropping the pepper in whole imparts the chili's incredible tropical fruitiness without making the dish unbearably spicy. Do not burst or cut it during cooking unless you want extreme heat.
Neutralize the kitchen.
Boiling salt mackerel has a notoriously strong oceanic aroma. Add a splash of vinegar or a squeeze of lime to the boiling water during the desalting process to help neutralize the smell.
From Cook Jamaican in America.