Ocopa Arequipeña
(oh-KOH-pah ah-reh-kee-PEHN-yah)
Para Picar y Empezar (The Front Porch Snacks & Starters)
For anyone raised in a Peruvian household, the scent is an immediate, visceral tether to the motherland: the earthy, unmistakable aroma of huacatay hitting hot oil. Ocopa is the moody, complex, southern cousin to Papa a la Huancaína, tracing its lineage straight back to the Incan chasquis. The secret to recreating this Arequipan classic on a Midwestern weeknight isn't a heavy stone batán, but rather blooming jarred imported chili pastes in a hot skillet, and trusting your grandmother's ultimate thickening hack: a handful of sweet animal crackers to brilliantly tame the bitter herbs.
Ingredients
- Yukon Gold potatoes1 1/2 lb
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- neutral oil3 tbsp
- red onion1 small
- garlic3 large cloves
- ají mirasol paste3 tbsp
- ají amarillo paste1 tbsp
- huacatay paste3 tbsp
- unsalted roasted peanuts1/2 cup
- queso fresco1 cup
- evaporated milk3/4 cup
- animal crackers10 small
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- Boston Bibb lettuce1 med head
- eggs3 large
- Botija olives6 med
Method
- 01
Prepare the canvas.
Place the unpeeled potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water, and add the kosher salt. Boil over medium-high heat until fork-tender, about 20 to 25 minutes, then cool, peel with your fingers, and cut into thick half-inch slices.
- 02
Build the heritage sofrito.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high. Sauté the chopped onion and smashed garlic until softened and golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes, then lower the heat, add the peanuts, and toss for one minute.
- 03
Bloom the flavor pastes.
Add the ají mirasol, ají amarillo, and huacatay pastes directly to the hot skillet, stirring continuously for two minutes to resurrect their dormant volatile oils before removing from the heat.
- 04
Blend with restraint.
Scrape the skillet's entire contents into a blender alongside the crumbled queso fresco, animal crackers, and evaporated milk. Pulse on medium speed until you reach a dense, unctuous cream that still holds micro-specks of peanuts and herbs, being careful not to over-blend into a watery puree.
- 05
Plate and garnish.
Line a platter with crisp lettuce leaves and arrange the potato slices in a slightly overlapping layer. Generously drape the green sauce over everything, garnishing with the quartered eggs and olives before serving at room temperature.
Notes
Source the right jars.
If finding dried ají mirasol and fresh huacatay in an American suburb proves impossible, rely on high-quality jarred pastes imported from Peru, easily found at local Latin markets or online.
Do not skip the animal crackers.
Standard soda crackers will flatten the dish. The subtle vanilla sweetness of animal crackers is the authentic grandmother's secret to balancing the bitter huacatay and smoky chilies without turning the sauce into a dessert.
From Cook Peruvian in America.