Norwegian Ferry Griddle Cakes
Sveler·(sveh-ler)
Fika & Koselig: The Sacred Pauses
If you’ve ever ridden a car ferry across the deep, icy fjords of Western Norway, you know the ritual. The moment the cars are parked in the hull, everyone heads to the passenger deck for a cup of black coffee and a svele. This isn't a breakfast pancake. It’s a massive, spongy coffee cake meant to be held in your hands while you stare at the water and take a sacred pause. The secret to the legendary ferry svele isn't fancy equipment. It’s having the patience to let the batter rest, and committing to a traditional buttercream filling where the sugar isn't fully dissolved, leaving a necessary, satisfying crunch against your teeth. This is exactly what home tastes like.
Before you start
Bring ingredients to room temperature.
Ensure your eggs and the butter for the buttercream are completely at room temp before starting so the batter aerates properly.
Melt the butter for the batter.
Melt the 1/3 cup of unsalted butter and set it aside to cool slightly so it doesn't scramble the eggs when added.
Ingredients
- eggs3 large
- granulated sugar3/4 cup
- cultured buttermilk3 cup
- all-purpose flour3 cup
- baking powder1 tbsp
- baking soda1 tsp
- unsalted butter1/3 cup
- unsalted butter10 tbsp
- granulated sugar1/2 cup
- powdered sugar1/3 cup
- Norwegian Brunost1 small block
Method
- 01
Whip the eggs and sugar.
Vigorously whisk the eggs and granulated sugar together until pale yellow, thick, and fluffy. This aerated base is the secret to a cake-like crumb.
- 02
Combine the wet and dry ingredients.
Pour the buttermilk into the egg mixture and stir gently. Whisk the flour, baking powder, and baking soda together, then fold into the wet mixture. Do not overmix; lumps are fine.
- 03
Add the butter and let the batter rest.
Fold in the melted butter just until combined, then walk away. Let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to hydrate the flour and activate the leavening. It will become very thick.
- 04
Make the crunchy buttercream.
Whip the softened butter, granulated sugar, and powdered sugar together. Do not whip it until smooth. You want the granulated sugar to maintain a distinct crunch against your teeth.
- 05
Cook the cakes.
Heat a non-stick skillet or flat griddle over medium-low heat. Melt a tiny pat of butter, then ladle about 1/3 cup of batter per cake, spreading it gently into a 6-inch circle.
- 06
Flip and fold immediately.
Cook until the edges look dry and bubbles pop on the surface, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook for another minute until golden. As soon as you remove the warm cake from the pan, fold it in half like a taco so it doesn't crack later.
- 07
Fill and serve.
Let the folded cakes cool slightly. Smear the inside generously with the crunchy buttercream, or add a swipe of plain butter and a slice of brown cheese.
Notes
The Secret of Baker's Ammonia
In a farmhouse in Sunnmøre, you’d use hjortesalt (horn salt), historically derived from deer antlers and known here as Baker's Ammonia. It creates an impossibly fluffy interior that baking powder can't quite match. If you ever spot it, swap out the tablespoon of baking powder for 1 teaspoon of Baker's Ammonia to taste the true, unadulterated flavor of the fjords.
From A Taste of Hjem: Scandinavian Heritage in the American Kitchen.