Northern Irish Champ
Brúitín·(broo-teen)
Purdies
If you want to start a fight in Ireland, ask whether Champ or Colcannon reigns supreme. Up north in Ulster, the answer is always Champ. Known in the native tongue as Brúitín, this is a working-class masterpiece masquerading as a humble side dish. Tossing raw green onions into cold mash is a fast track to mediocrity. The grandmother's secret here is simple but absolute: steep the scallions in hot milk and cultured butter first, perfuming the liquid before it ever hits the hot, dry starch of a russet potato. Pile it high, dig a well in the center, drop in a heavy knob of butter, and eat from the outside in.
Before you start
Sort the chopped scallions strictly by color.
The white and light-green bases must be separated from the dark-green tops. The bases are simmered to perfume the milk, while the tops are folded in raw at the very end.
Ingredients
- russet potatoes2 1/2 lb
- scallions1 1/2 bunch
- whole milk1 1/4 cup
- pure Irish salted butter6 tbsp
- sea salt1 tsp
- ground white pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Boil the potatoes in salted water until completely fork-tender.
Place the potato chunks into a large pot, cover with an inch of cold water, and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until they offer zero resistance.
- 02
Steep the scallion bases in hot milk and butter.
While the potatoes boil, combine the milk, 4 tablespoons of the butter, and the white and light-green scallion pieces in a small saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat until it just begins to steam, then remove from heat, cover, and steep for at least 5 minutes to extract the essential oils.
- 03
Drain and dry the potatoes on the warm stove.
Drain the potatoes in a colander, then immediately return them to the empty pot. Shake the pot gently over low residual heat for 1 to 2 minutes until the surface moisture evaporates in a cloud of steam.
- 04
Mash the potatoes until entirely smooth.
Crush the dry potatoes thoroughly with a masher, breaking down all lumps so the starches are ready to absorb the dairy without turning to glue.
- 05
Fold in the infused milk and dark scallion tops.
Slowly pour the hot, perfumed milk mixture into the mash, stirring continuously until luxurious and creamy. Stir in the salt, white pepper, and the reserved dark-green scallion tops to preserve their fresh bite and bright color.
- 06
Plate the dish with a traditional butter well.
Pile the hot Champ into a mountain on a serving dish, use the back of a spoon to dig a deep crater in the center, and drop the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into the well to melt.
Notes
The proper way to eat Brúitín is from the outside in.
Take a forkful of the hot mash from the outside edge and dip it directly into the molten butter pool in the center before taking a bite.
Save your leftover mash for breakfast.
Cold Champ makes an exceptional base for morning potato cakes; simply form the stiff mash into patties, dust lightly with flour, and pan-fry in butter alongside your eggs.
From Cook Irish-American Food.