Ngao Yuk Kau

Ngao Yuk Kau

山竹牛肉球·(saan juk ngau yuk kau)

Chapter 2: The Steamed

A proper dim sum meatball bounces. Achieving this elasticity requires tapioca starch and the deliberate manipulation of proteins using alkaline lye water, rigorous hydration, and the clean richness of pure pork fat. Forget the dense Tuesday meatloaf; just slap the chilled beef against the mixing bowl until sticky, arrange it over watercress stems, and let the heat bring the steaming, umami-soaked bamboo baskets of a chaotic Chinatown parlor directly to your dining room table.

Before you start

  • Plan a day ahead

    The meat paste requires an overnight rest in the refrigerator to fully develop its texture and solidify the pork fat. Execute the heavy mixing on Saturday to prepare for a Sunday brunch service.

Ingredients

  • lean ground beef400 g
  • pure pork back fat100 g
  • fine sea salt3/4 tsp
  • baking soda1/2 tsp
  • Kansui1/2 tsp
  • ice cold water140 g
  • granulated sugar1 tbsp
  • chicken bouillon powder2 tsp
  • light soy sauce1 tbsp
  • ground white pepper1/2 tsp
  • tapioca starch40 g
  • cold water40 g
  • dried tangerine peel1/2 piece
  • fresh water chestnuts60 g
  • fresh cilantro20 g
  • scallions20 g
  • toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
  • dried bean curd skin1 large sheet
  • Worcestershire sauce2 tbsp

Method

  1. 01

    Denature the cold beef in a stand mixer with salt and baking soda.

    Place the extremely cold ground beef into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the salt and baking soda, mixing on low speed for one minute to begin breaking down the tough meat fibers.

  2. 02

    Add the alkaline lye water and slowly emulsify the ice water in thirds.

    Increase the speed to medium-high and add the kansui. Slowly stream in the first third of the ice water, waiting until it is completely absorbed before adding the next. This process takes 10 to 15 minutes, transforming the meat from distinct strands into a pale, sticky, homogenous paste that pulls away from the bowl in web-like strands.

  3. 03

    Blend in the flavor matrix and the tapioca starch slurry.

    Whisk the sugar, chicken bouillon, soy sauce, white pepper, and the reserved tangerine liquid together, then pour into the running mixer. In a small bowl, mix the tapioca starch with the cold water to form a slurry, and stream it into the paste to instantly lock in the moisture.

  4. 04

    Fold the fat and aromatics into the meat paste by hand.

    Remove the bowl from the mixer. Using a stiff silicone spatula, fold in the minced pork fat, tangerine peel, water chestnuts, cilantro, scallions, and sesame oil. Mixing these by hand ensures the delicate fat cubes don't melt and the water chestnuts retain their crunch.

  5. 05

    Chill the mixture for at least six hours to set the fat and complete the alkaline tenderization.

    Transfer the paste to an airtight container, pressing plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent oxidation. Refrigerate for a minimum of six hours, or preferably overnight.

  6. 06

    Form the chilled meat paste into rough spheres.

    Set up a small bowl of cold water to wet your hands, preventing the paste from sticking. Scoop approximately 40 grams of the chilled meat paste into your palm and gently roll it into a sphere without compressing it tightly.

  7. 07

    Steam the beef balls over a bed of bean curd skin.

    Line the bottom of your bamboo steamer baskets with the softened squares of bean curd skin. Place the beef balls on top, spacing them an inch apart. Steam over vigorously boiling water for 10 to 12 minutes until puffed, firm, and rendering clear juices.

  8. 08

    Serve immediately from the bamboo steamer with Worcestershire sauce.

    Bring the steaming baskets directly to the table. The tart, heavily spiced profile of the Worcestershire dipping sauce cuts perfectly through the rich pork fat and alkaline edge of the meat.

Notes

  • Sourcing the Kansui

    Lye water (kansui) is chemically non-negotiable for achieving the signature restaurant bounce. Find it bottled in the baking or noodle aisles of any well-stocked Asian grocer.

  • Tangerine Peel Prep

    The white pith of the dried tangerine peel is intensely bitter and will ruin the meat if left intact. After soaking, scrape it away meticulously with a small spoon before mincing.

From Cook Dim Sum at Home.

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