Nam Tao Hu & Patongo

Before you start

• Soak the beans.

  Wash the split soybeans vigorously until the water runs clear, then cover with fresh water and soak at room temperature for 4 to 8 hours before blending.

• Cold ferment the dough.

  The dough requires an overnight rest. Mix it the night before and stash it in the fridge so it's ready to shape and fry the next morning.

Ingredients

• all-purpose flour300 g
• warm water195 ml
• granulated sugar1 tbsp
• active dry yeast1 tsp
• baking powder1 1/2 tsp
• baking soda1/2 tsp
• fine sea salt1 tsp
• vegetable oil1 tbsp
• milk powder1 tbsp
• neutral oil2 qt
• peeled split yellow soybeans500 g
• filtered water4 l
• frozen pandan leaves8 large
• fine sea salt1/2 tsp
• granulated sugar1/2 cup

Method

1. 01

   Activate the yeast and mix the dough.

   Whisk the warm water, 1 tablespoon of sugar, and yeast in a small bowl until frothy. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, 1 teaspoon of salt, and milk powder. Pour the wet mixture and vegetable oil into the dry ingredients. Mix with a spatula until just combined. The dough will be shaggy and sticky—do not knead it.

2. 02

   Fold and rest the dough.

   Cover the bowl and rest for 1 hour at room temperature. Wet your hands, gently fold the edges of the dough into the center a few times to smooth it out, then transfer to a sealed container and refrigerate overnight.

3. 03

   Extract the pandan water and blend the beans.

   Blend the 2 chopped pandan leaves with 1 cup of the filtered water, then strain and discard the pulp. Drain the soaked soybeans. Working in batches, blend the swollen beans on high speed with the pandan water and the remaining filtered water until highly uniform and frothy.

4. 04

   Milk the pureed soybeans.

   Line a large colander with a nut-milk bag or multiple layers of cheesecloth over a heavy-bottomed stockpot. Pour the puree into the cloth, gather the edges, twist, and squeeze with everything you have to extract every last drop of milk. Discard the dry okara pulp.

5. 05

   Simmer the milk with extreme prejudice.

   Drop the knotted pandan leaves and 1/2 teaspoon of salt into the pot of milk. Heat over medium-low, stirring constantly and scraping the very bottom of the pot to prevent the proteins from scorching. Once it reaches a gentle boil, drop the heat to the absolute minimum and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove the pandan knot, and whisk in 1/2 cup of sugar.

6. 06

   Shape the Patongo.

   Let the cold dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes to take the chill off. Turn it out onto a heavily floured surface and gently pat it into a 1/4-inch thick rectangle, being careful not to punch the air out. Cut into strips 1 inch wide and 2 inches long.

7. 07

   Create the water seal.

   Dip a wooden skewer in water and press it firmly down the center length of one dough strip. Place a second strip directly on top, then press down the center again with a dry skewer to fuse them. This seam forces the dough to puff into its iconic butterfly shape.

8. 08

   Fry until shattered and crisp.

   Heat 2 inches of neutral oil in a Dutch oven to 350°F. Pick up a fused dough pair, gently stretch it to double its length, and lower it into the hot oil. Turn continuously with long chopsticks for 3 to 4 minutes until deep golden brown. Serve immediately alongside mugs of the hot soy milk.

Notes

• The non-negotiable soybean rule.

  Never use whole soybeans. The hull contains enzymes that create an astringent, raw-bean flavor. Peeled, split yellow soybeans are the secret to this milk's incredible richness.

• Treat the dough with respect.

  Patongo relies on a wet, sticky dough. If you knead it like bread, you develop the gluten and end up with a dense, chewy stick rather than a shatteringly crisp fritter.

• Beware the scorch.

  Soy milk proteins sink to the bottom of the pot. When bringing the Nam Tao Hu to a boil, you must continuously scrape the bottom. A single scorched patch will taint the entire batch.