Myeolchi Bokkeum
멸치볶음·(myeol-chi bo-kkeum)
Halmoni's Dosirak: The Packed School Lunch
Myeolchi bokkeum is the undisputed champion of the Korean lunchbox, a banchan that stains the corner of your rice with a sweet, savory, golden syrup. If you have ever tried to make it and ended up with a solid brick of fish you had to chisel out of a container, you are not alone. The neighborhood diner cooks know two secrets to keep it perfectly sticky, crispy, and tender straight from the fridge: dry-roast the anchovies to kill the freezer funk, and coat them in a spoonful of mayonnaise. It sounds unorthodox, but it is pure, unadulterated genius.
Before you start
Find the right anchovies.
Look for jiri-myeolchi (baby dried anchovies) in the refrigerated or freezer aisle of the Asian market. They should be tiny, silver, and slightly translucent.
Ingredients
- baby dried anchovies2 cup
- sliced almonds or pumpkin seeds1/2 cup
- neutral cooking oil1 1/2 tbsp
- garlic5 med clove
- jalapeño or serrano pepper1 med
- mayonnaise1 tbsp
- soy sauce1 tbsp
- mirin1 tbsp
- white sugar1 tbsp
- Korean oligosaccharide or corn syrup3 tbsp
- toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
- toasted sesame seeds1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Toast the anchovies in a large, dry skillet over medium-low heat.
Stir frequently for 3 to 4 minutes until they sound like dry leaves rustling and you hear a faint crackling; this flashes off any freezer moisture and fishy odors.
- 02
Pour the toasted anchovies into a fine-mesh strainer and shake vigorously over a sink or bowl.
Discard the fine dust that falls out and wipe your skillet completely clean, otherwise the particulates will burn in the oil and turn your glaze bitter.
- 03
Toss the warm anchovies with the mayonnaise until evenly coated.
This microscopic layer of fat and egg yolk is the grandmother's secret to ensuring the anchovies never fuse into a hard rock in the refrigerator.
- 04
Return the clean skillet to medium heat and saute the neutral oil, sliced garlic, and diced pepper for 1 to 2 minutes.
Cook until the garlic is fragrant and just beginning to turn golden, then toss in the nuts or seeds for 30 seconds to lightly toast them.
- 05
Push the garlic and nuts to one side of the pan and pour the soy sauce, mirin, and white sugar onto the empty side.
Let the liquid bubble furiously for 10 to 15 seconds to dissolve the sugar, then immediately toss the garlic and nuts through the bubbling sauce.
- 06
Add the mayonnaise-coated anchovies back into the skillet, toss quickly, and immediately turn the heat completely off.
Boiling the syrup alters its molecular structure; killing the heat before adding the oligosaccharide is critical to keeping the glaze glossy and scoopable rather than brittle.
- 07
Stir in the oligosaccharide, toasted sesame oil, and sesame seeds using the residual heat of the pan.
Transfer immediately to a wide plate to cool in an even layer before packing away in an airtight container.
Notes
Do not substitute the syrup.
Korean oligosaccharide (oligodang) or corn syrup (mulyeot) is non-negotiable for the right sticky, non-hardening texture. Avoid honey, which burns easily and heavily alters the flavor.
From Cook Korean in America.