Mpanata della Vigilia
(em-pah-NAH-tah del-lah vee-JEE-lee-ah)
Hyphenated Holidays: Sicilian-American Gatherings
Growing up in an Ohio suburb, Christmas Eve meant the house smelled of roasting garlic, sharp aged cheese, and olive oil. They didn't serve a bloated Hollywood feast; they served Mpanata—a rustic, deeply savory stuffed bread pie born in the province of Ragusa. Designed for a meatless vigil, it relies on cauliflower, black olives, and anchovies to deliver an incredible umami punch that tastes exactly like the old country. The magic lies in two simple grandmotherly tricks: laying down toasted breadcrumbs to soak up vegetable juices, and draping the hot pie with a dish towel right out of the oven to steam the durum wheat crust into a perfect, authentic chew.
Before you start
Toast the breadcrumbs.
In a small skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and toast the plain breadcrumbs until golden brown to create the moisture barrier.
Ingredients
- semolina flour1 1/2 cup
- unbleached bread flour1 1/2 cup
- active dry yeast1 tsp
- warm water1 cup
- extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- kosher salt2 tsp
- plain breadcrumbs1/2 cup
- cauliflower1 med
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- anchovy fillets5 med
- black olives1/2 cup
- aged provolone cheese1 1/2 cup
- capers1 tbsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Form the dough.
In a large bowl, whisk together the warm water and yeast, letting it sit for five minutes before mixing in the semolina, bread flour, olive oil, and salt until a shaggy mass forms.
- 02
Knead and rise.
Turn the dough out onto a counter, kneading for eight to ten minutes until smooth and elastic, then cover tightly in an oiled bowl and let it rise in a warm spot for about two hours.
- 03
Steam the cauliflower.
Steam the florets until just fork-tender, about five to seven minutes, then drain thoroughly and pat dry to avoid a soggy pie.
- 04
Build the savory base.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, cooking the onion until soft before melting in the chopped anchovies.
- 05
Finish the filling.
Toss the drained cauliflower into the savory oil for two minutes to drive off excess moisture, remove from heat, stir in the olives, capers, and pepper, and fold in the cheese once completely cooled.
- 06
Create the moisture barrier.
Preheat the oven to 400°F, punch down the dough, and divide it into a slightly larger and smaller piece; roll the larger piece into an 11-inch circle for the base, let it hang over the edges of a parchment-lined pan, and sprinkle the toasted breadcrumbs evenly across the bottom.
- 07
Seal the pie.
Pile the cooled filling evenly over the breadcrumbs, top with the smaller rolled sheet of dough, and fold the overhanging bottom edges upward to pinch and crimp a thick, rope-like border to lock in the steam.
- 08
Bake to golden.
Poke a few steam holes in the top crust, brush lightly with olive oil, and bake for 35 to 45 minutes until deeply browned.
- 09
Rest and soften.
The final secret is patience: remove the pie from the oven and immediately drape a clean, dry cotton dish towel over it for twenty to thirty minutes to trap the steam and perfectly soften the crust before slicing.
Notes
The meat option.
If the family doesn't strictly abstain from meat for the holiday, brown a half-pound of crumbled sweet Italian sausage with fennel seeds alongside the onions.
The coastal variation.
Substitute a pound of desalted, flaked salt cod and thinly sliced potatoes in place of the cauliflower for a traditional seafood vigil pie.