Moules Marinières Frites
La Cuisine de Grand-Mère: The Sunday Pots
In the coastal towns of France and the smoky brasseries of Belgium, mussels and fries are less a meal and more a religion. The secret to grandmotherly perfection lies entirely in what you don't do. You do not overcomplicate the broth, you absolutely never salt the mussels—they bring the sea with them—and you never rush the double-fry of the potatoes. We trade the elusive French Bintje potato and bouchot mussels for ubiquitous Yukon Golds and fresh farm-raised mussels from your local fish counter, but the technique remains sacred.
Before you start
Wash the surface starch off the potatoes.
Cut the peeled potatoes into uniform 1/2-inch sticks and submerge them immediately in a large bowl of cold water for 10 to 15 minutes to prevent them from burning in the hot oil.
Dry the potatoes completely.
Drain the potatoes and lay them out on a clean kitchen towel. Pat them aggressively until bone dry, as any residual water will cause the hot oil to violently splatter.
Sort and de-beard the mussels.
Empty the mussels into a colander under running cold water. Tap any open mussels on the counter; if they don't snap shut, throw them away. Grab the fibrous beard from the shell crack and pull it toward the hinge to rip it out, then lightly scrub off any grit.
Ingredients
- Yukon Gold potatoes2 1/2 lb
- neutral frying oil2 qt
- fine sea salt1 tbsp
- fresh live mussels4 lb
- unsalted butter4 tbsp
- shallots3 large
- garlic cloves3 large
- dry white wine1 cup
- fresh thyme2 small
- bay leaf1 med
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/2 cup
- black pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Blanch the fries in a first, lower-temperature fry.
Heat the oil in a deep pot to 300°F. Working in small batches, fry the potatoes for 5 to 7 minutes until they are soft and fully cooked through, but pale and completely un-browned. Transfer to a wire rack and let them cool at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.
- 02
Sweat the aromatics for the broth.
Place a large Dutch oven over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the minced shallots and garlic, sautéing gently for 3 to 4 minutes until translucent and fragrant, taking care not to let them brown.
- 03
Boil the wine to burn off the alcohol.
Drop in the thyme, bay leaf, black pepper, and pour in the white wine. Turn the heat up to medium-high and let it come to a vigorous, rolling boil for 1 minute.
- 04
Execute the high-heat second fry.
Increase the frying oil temperature to 375°F. Plunge the rested fries back into the hot oil for 4 to 5 minutes until deeply golden and rigid, then skim them out, shake off the excess oil, and immediately toss in a large bowl with a heavy pinch of sea salt.
- 05
Steam the mussels rapidly over high heat.
The moment the fries go in for their second fry, dump all the cleaned mussels into the boiling wine broth and slap a tight-fitting lid on the pot.
- 06
Agitate the pot to ensure even cooking.
After 2 minutes, grab the pot handles with towels and give the whole pot a vigorous, upward shake to toss the mussels from the bottom to the top, repeating this once more at the 4-minute mark.
- 07
Garnish and serve immediately.
Remove the lid and discard any mussels that remain stubbornly shut. Remove the thyme and bay leaf, dump the chopped fresh parsley over the top, stir it through, and ladle the mussels and their briny broth into wide bowls alongside the hot fries.
Notes
Never salt the mussel broth.
The natural seawater released by the mussels as they open provides the perfect, unadulterated salinity, and adding any additional salt will ruin the dish.
Timing is everything.
The mussels cook in exactly the amount of time it takes to execute the second, high-heat fry on the potatoes, so start them both simultaneously.
From Cook French in America.