Molotes Oaxaqueños de Papa y Chorizo
Molotes Oaxaqueños de Papa y Chorizo·(mo-LO-tes o-a-ha-KE-nyos de PA-pa y cho-REE-so)
El Almuerzo (The Morning Masa Rhythm)
A Oaxacan molote is not some generic, flat empanada, but a crisp, golden torpedo of masa. We utilize the rendered fat of standard grocery-store Mexican chorizo to deeply flavor crushed potatoes before wrapping them in a dough spiked with just a whisper of wheat flour to prevent cracking. Because the technique translates flawlessly to a busy weeknight, simply mix dough from a bag of masa harina, get a cast-iron skillet hot, and fry until the masa blisters.
Before you start
Make the filling in advance.
The potato and chorizo filling actually improves if made a day or two ahead, as the starches fully absorb and lock in the spiced pork fat. Stash it in the fridge, and on a weeknight, you only have to mix the masa and fry.
Ingredients
- yellow potatoes1 lb
- Mexican pork chorizo8 oz
- white onion1/2 small
- garlic1 small clove
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- masa harina2 cup
- all-purpose flour2 tbsp
- baking powder1/2 tsp
- vegetable oil or melted lard1 tbsp
- warm water1 1/2 cup
- neutral cooking oil2 cup
- canned black beans1 15 oz can
- fresh avocado leaf or epazote1 med
- queso fresco1/2 cup
- iceberg lettuce1/2 cup
- guacamole or salsa verde1 cup
- radishes3 med
Method
- 01
Boil the potatoes whole.
Drop the unpeeled potatoes into heavily salted boiling water and cook for 30 to 40 minutes until completely tender. Keeping the skins on prevents them from waterlogging, which would ruin the final texture. Once cool enough to handle, peel and roughly mash them, leaving some texture.
- 02
Render the chorizo.
In a heavy skillet over medium heat, fry the chorizo for 8 to 10 minutes until deeply browned and the red fat pools in the pan. Do not drain this fat—it is the absolute soul of the dish.
- 03
Unify the filling.
Stir the diced onion and garlic into the chorizo, cooking until translucent. Fold in the mashed potatoes aggressively until they absorb every drop of the spiced pork fat. Taste for salt, then let it cool completely; a hot filling will melt and tear the raw masa.
- 04
Purée the quick bean paste.
Blend the undrained black beans until velvety, then simmer them in a small saucepan with a splash of oil and the avocado leaf or epazote. Stir frequently for 5 to 10 minutes until thickened into a pourable, heavy cream consistency.
- 05
Hydrate the masa.
In a large bowl, whisk the masa harina, all-purpose flour, baking powder, and a half teaspoon of salt. Work the tablespoon of oil and the warm water in with your hands, kneading until it feels like soft, pliable play-dough. Cover with a damp towel.
- 06
Shape the torpedoes.
Flatten a golf-ball-sized piece of masa between two sheets of plastic in a tortilla press or under a heavy skillet. Place exactly one tablespoon of filling down the center, fold the sides over to overlap slightly, and pinch the seams tightly. Gently roll and taper the ends into a cigar shape, ensuring absolutely no filling is exposed.
- 07
Fry to a golden crisp.
Heat the two cups of neutral oil in a heavy skillet to 350°F. Gently lower the molotes in small batches and fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Do not rush them over high heat; you want a deeply resonant, shattering crust that safely steams the interior layer of dough.
- 08
Plate the Oaxacan way.
Smear a generous spoonful of the warm bean paste onto a plate and lay two hot molotes over the top. Shower them with shredded lettuce, a heavy drizzle of salsa verde, crumbled queso fresco, and crisp sliced radishes. Serve immediately.
Notes
The abuela's secret to structural integrity.
Adding just two tablespoons of all-purpose wheat flour to the masa harina is a generational trick. It creates a slight gluten network that prevents the dough from cracking when you fold it into the complex torpedo shape.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.