
MLA Pesarattu with Upma Stuffer
ఎమ్మెల్యే పెసరట్టు ఉప్మా·(em-el-ay pe-sa-rat-tu oop-ma)
Andhra Sunday Tiffin Room: The Ghee and The Karam
In the humming canteens of Hyderabad's State Legislative Assembly, politicians pressed for time demanded their crispy green moong crepes and savory semolina upma served together as one glorious, unified package. For the first-generation American cook, this dish is a weeknight miracle. It demands no fermentation, just a strict four-to-six hour soak of the lentils and a secret handful of flattened rice to achieve that signature shatter-crisp exterior wrapping around a rich, ghee-laced upma center.
Before you start
Soak the lentils and rice for exactly four to six hours.
Rinse the whole green mung beans and raw rice vigorously until the water runs clear. Submerge them in three inches of fresh water at room temperature. Resist the urge to soak them overnight, as over-soaking leads to limp crepes that absorb too much oil.
Hydrate the flattened rice.
Thirty minutes before you plan to blend the batter, rinse the poha and add just enough water to submerge it so it softens.
Ingredients
- whole green mung beans1 cup
- short grain white rice1/4 cup
- thick poha1/4 cup
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- green chilies2 small
- cumin seeds1 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- red onion1 med
- fresh ginger1 tbsp
- cumin seeds1 tsp
- fine semolina1 cup
- neutral oil2 tbsp
- ghee3 tbsp
- mustard seeds1/2 tsp
- urad dal1 tsp
- chana dal1 tsp
- raw cashew halves12 med
- fresh curry leaves12 med
- yellow onion1 med
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- green chilies2 small
- boiling water3 cup
- kosher salt1 tsp
- neutral oil2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Blend the soaked lentils and rice to a coarse, wet-sand consistency.
Drain the beans, rice, and hydrated poha completely. Transfer to a high-powered blender with the chopped ginger, green chilies, cumin seeds, and salt. Blend, adding cold water a few tablespoons at a time, until you hit a thick, pourable batter. Do not over-blend into a smooth puree.
- 02
Dry-roast the semolina until toasty and fragrant.
Place a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir the semolina continuously for four to five minutes until it smells nutty, making sure it doesn't brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
- 03
Bloom the aromatics and fry the dals in oil and ghee.
In the same pan, heat the oil and one tablespoon of the ghee over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, add the urad dal, chana dal, and cashews, frying until light golden brown. Stand back and toss in the curry leaves, followed by the minced ginger, slit green chilies, and yellow onion. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent.
- 04
Whisk the semolina into boiling water to avoid lumps.
Carefully pour the boiling water into the pan and add the salt. Reduce heat to low. Slowly rain the roasted semolina into the water with one hand while continuously whisking with the other. Cover the pan, reduce heat to the lowest setting, and let steam for three to four minutes until fluffy. Stir in one more tablespoon of ghee, turn off the heat, and keep covered.
- 05
Spread the batter on a hot griddle and embed the onion topping.
Mix the minced red onion, ginger, and cumin in a small bowl. Heat a large cast-iron or heavy non-stick pan over medium heat. Pour a half cup of the batter into the center and use the rounded bottom of a ladle in rapid, concentric circles to spread it thin. Immediately sprinkle the onion mixture over the wet batter, pressing gently with a spatula so it sticks.
- 06
Crisp the crepe, flip briefly, and fold it over the warm upma.
Drizzle oil around the edges and let it cook undisturbed for two to three minutes until the bottom is a deep golden-brown. Loosen the edges, flip for thirty seconds to caramelize the raw onions, then flip back. Place a generous scoop of the upma directly in the center, fold the crepe in half like an omelet, and serve immediately.
Notes
Keep the batter coarse.
Modern blenders can easily turn the lentils into a fine paste. You want to stop when the batter feels like fine wet sand to maintain the traditional texture and crunch.
Use cold water for blending.
High-powered blenders generate a lot of heat, which can prematurely cook the starches in the lentils. Using cold water prevents this.