Ming Ting-Style Nao Hua Dou Fu

Ming Ting-Style Nao Hua Dou Fu

脑花豆腐·(nǎo huā dòu fu)

Cangying Guanzi (The Weekend Fly Restaurant)

Past the sticky tables and plastic stools, Ming Ting Restaurant is the undisputed king of Chengdu's "fly restaurants." Decades ago, they took beloved mapo tofu and pushed it to its textural limit by folding in custardy pig brains. It is a staggering punch of ma-la heat and tender-on-tender decadence. To recreate this magic on a weeknight, swap the offal for roasted beef bone marrow. Let the marrow fat seep into the Pixian doubanjiang, watch the chili oil split into a crimson slick, spoon the bubbling tofu over hot rice, and eat.

Before you start

  • Prepare the proteins.

    If using bone marrow, roast the canoe-cut bones at 400°F for 15 to 20 minutes until bubbling, then scoop the marrow and rendered fat into a bowl. If using traditional pig brains, soak in cold water for 15 minutes, meticulously peel away the red vascular membrane using a toothpick, then blanch for 2 minutes in simmering water with ginger and a splash of beer before chopping into 1.5-inch chunks.

  • Blanch the tofu.

    Bring a pot of water to a simmer, add a pinch of salt and a few drops of dark soy sauce. Slide the tofu cubes in and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the tofu sit in the hot water until needed. This osmotic trick draws out excess moisture so the tofu won't disintegrate in the wok.

Ingredients

  • beef marrow bones or pig brains1 lb
  • soft or silken tofu1 block
  • ground beef or ground pork2 oz
  • Pixian doubanjiang1 1/2 tbsp
  • fermented black beans1 tsp
  • ginger1 tbsp
  • garlic3 med cloves
  • pickled jalapeños or pao jiao1 tbsp
  • canola oil1 tbsp
  • bacon fat or lard1 tbsp
  • chicken stock or water1 cup
  • light soy sauce1 tsp
  • dark soy sauce1/4 tsp
  • sugar1/2 tsp
  • cornstarch1 1/2 tbsp
  • Sichuan peppercorns1 tsp
  • scallions or garlic sprouts1 med

Method

  1. 01

    Crisp the minced meat in the cooking fats.

    Heat a wok or deep skillet over medium heat, add the canola oil and bacon fat, then fry the minced meat until the moisture evaporates and it becomes crispy and incredibly fragrant.

  2. 02

    Build the vibrant ma-la base.

    Turn the heat to low. Add the doubanjiang and fry slowly for 1 to 2 minutes until the oil glows a brilliant ruby red. Toss in the minced garlic, ginger, fermented black beans, and pickled chilies, stir-frying for 30 seconds until intensely aromatic.

  3. 03

    Simmer the tofu and proteins in the spiced broth.

    Pour in the chicken stock. Season with the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and sugar. Bring to a gentle boil, then use a slotted spoon to carefully transfer the hot, blanched tofu into the wok. Gently slide in the blanched brains or spoon in the roasted bone marrow and fat. Simmer gently on medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes.

  4. 04

    Execute the crucial three-stage thickening.

    This is the grandmother's secret to perfect Sichuan tofu. Stir your cornstarch slurry and drizzle one-third of it into the wok. Wait 10 seconds, then use the back of a ladle to gently push the ingredients forward—do not aggressively stir, or you will mash the delicate tofu. After 30 seconds, drizzle in the second third and push gently again. Add the final third right before turning off the heat, creating a glossy gravy that perfectly hugs every piece of tofu.

  5. 05

    Garnish generously and serve immediately.

    Slide the bubbling mixture into a wide, shallow serving bowl. Unlike other Sichuan dishes, do not finish this with smoking hot oil, as it will overcook the delicate proteins. Simply dust the top with the freshly ground Sichuan peppercorn powder and sliced scallions, and serve with massive bowls of steamed white rice.

Notes

  • A note on the weeknight bone marrow substitution.

    First-generation American kitchens might find sourcing and cleaning pig brains tedious for a random Tuesday. Roasted beef bone marrow shares an almost identical lipid profile and textural melting point, acting as a luxurious conduit for the ma-la spices without the need for meticulous membrane peeling.

From Cook Sichuan in America.

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