Mì Gõ Sài Gòn
Mì Gõ Sài Gòn·(mee-gaw-sy-gawn)
Quán Bún & Phở: The At-Home Noodle Shop Lunch
Drop a nest of thin egg noodles into a rolling boil, pulling a frantic Tuesday evening into the narrow, winding alleyways of Saigon after dark, where you won't hear traffic—you'll hear the clack of wooden blocks, the rhythmic lốc cốc of the noodle vendor striking bamboo. Built on a crystal-clear pork bone broth sweetened with chunks of daikon and enriched by toasted dried squid, the dish relies on the slick, savory richness of crispy rendered pork fat to bind the bowl together. A pressure cooker channels that four-hour slow-simmered depth into weeknight reality, a visceral, steaming memory. Ladle the broth scalding hot, hit it with a shower of fried shallots, and eat it fast.
Ingredients
- pork neck bones2 lb
- boneless pork butt1 lb
- daikon radish1 med
- yellow onion1 large
- dried squid1 large
- dried shrimp1/4 cup
- rock sugar1 1/2 tbsp
- fine sea salt1 tbsp
- fish sauce1 tbsp
- MSG1 tsp
- pork fat back1/2 lb
- shallot3 med
- garlic4 clove
- soy sauce3 tbsp
- oyster sauce2 tbsp
- dark soy sauce1 tbsp
- sugar1 1/2 tbsp
- water1 tbsp
- ground black pepper1/4 tsp
- fresh thin egg noodles1 lb
- fresh bean sprouts2 cup
- garlic chives1 small bunch
Method
- 01
Awaken the oceanic depth of the dried seafood by toasting it directly over a flame.
Hold the dried squid with kitchen tongs directly over a gas flame, or place in a dry skillet over medium-high heat, for 1 to 2 minutes until it curls, slightly chars, and smells like roasted nuts. Briefly toast the dried shrimp in the dry skillet until fragrant, then set both aside.
- 02
Aggressively boil and clean the pork bones to guarantee a crystal-clear broth.
Place the pork bones and whole pork butt in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Boil hard for 5 to 7 minutes until a thick grey foam rises, then dump the entire pot into a sink colander and meticulously scrub the bones and meat under cold water to remove any coagulated blood.
- 03
Build the foundational broth in an electric pressure cooker.
Transfer the cleaned bones, pork butt, toasted squid, toasted shrimp, daikon, onion, rock sugar, and sea salt to your pressure cooker. Fill with water to the max fill line (about 3 1/2 to 4 quarts), seal the lid, and cook on high pressure for 40 minutes.
- 04
Render the crispy pork fat and allium oil to create the undisputed soul of the dish.
Place the tiny pork fat cubes in a cold skillet over medium-low heat and let the fat slowly render out for 15 to 20 minutes. Once the cubes have shrunk and turned golden, stir in the sliced shallots and minced garlic, fry for 2 to 3 minutes until crispy, and immediately transfer this liquid gold to a heat-proof bowl.
- 05
Simmer the dark, savory-sweet dry noodle sauce.
In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, sugar, water, and black pepper. Simmer over medium-low heat for 2 minutes just until the sugar dissolves and the sauce slightly thickens, then stir in one tablespoon of the rendered pork fat oil.
- 06
Strain and season the broth to perfection.
Allow the pressure cooker to naturally release for 10 minutes, then manually release the remaining pressure. Remove the solid pork butt, tent it with foil, and let it cool slightly before using a very sharp knife to slice it as thin as humanly possible. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, discarding the bones and aromatics, and season the hot liquid with fish sauce, MSG, and additional salt to taste.
- 07
Assemble the bowls with blanched noodles, paper-thin pork, and a shower of vibrant garnishes.
Blanch the fresh egg noodles in a separate pot of boiling water for 20 seconds, drain vigorously, and immediately toss in a serving bowl with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the dark noodle sauce and a teaspoon of pork oil to prevent clumping. Top with bean sprouts, the sliced pork, fresh chives, a generous spoonful of the crispy pork fat bits, and serve with a steaming bowl of broth on the side.
Notes
Advance preparation makes weeknight assembly effortless.
The crispy pork fat and dark dry noodle sauce can be made on a Sunday and kept in the fridge for weeks. On a weeknight, your meal comes together in exactly the 10 minutes it takes to boil water and slice the meat.
Dark soy sauce is non-negotiable for color and depth.
If you absolutely cannot find dark soy sauce at your local Asian market, substitute one tablespoon of hoisin sauce to maintain the dark color and slight molasses notes required for the dry sauce.