Mfarakeh Kousa
مفركة كوسا·(m-fa-ra-keh koo-sa)
The American Dukkan: Pantry Suppers & Market Hacks
If there is one dish that separates the restaurant version of Lebanese food from the reality of the Lebanese home, it is Mfarakeh. You will never find this on a white-tablecloth menu, but ask any first-generation kid from Ohio to Dearborn what their grandmother made on a Tuesday night when the fridge was bare, and they will name this humble scramble. The secret is ignoring the giant, watery American zucchinis and seeking out Mexican Grey Squash, which perfectly mimics the dense, sweet Middle Eastern Kousa. Cooked slowly in ghee until meltingly tender, then folded gently with eggs and dusted with dried mint, this is a twenty-minute masterclass in heritage comfort.
Ingredients
- Mexican Grey Squash3 med
- yellow onion1 med
- ghee2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- large eggs5 large
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- Lebanese Seven-Spice1/4 tsp
- dried spearmint1 tsp
- Arabic pita bread4 med
Method
- 01
Soften the aromatics.
In a large non-stick skillet over medium heat, melt the ghee with the neutral oil to prevent burning. Add the diced onion and a quarter teaspoon of the salt, cooking until deeply softened and entirely translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let the onions brown.
- 02
Sweat the squash.
Add the diced squash and another quarter teaspoon of salt to draw out the moisture. Do not add any water to the pan. Cover the skillet with a tight-fitting lid, lower the heat slightly, and let the squash sweat in its own steam for 8 to 10 minutes until it turns a soft, translucent yellow.
- 03
Whisk the eggs.
While the squash cooks, crack the eggs into a bowl and whisk vigorously with the remaining half teaspoon of salt, black pepper, and Lebanese Seven-Spice.
- 04
Execute the curd fold.
Once the squash is tender and the pan's liquid has mostly evaporated, pour the beaten eggs evenly over the vegetables and stop. Let them sit completely undisturbed for 15 to 30 seconds until the edges turn opaque, then gently fold from the outside in with a spatula to create large, tender curds.
- 05
Finish and serve.
Remove the skillet from the heat while the eggs are still slightly glossy. Crush the dried mint between your palms directly over the hot pan, and serve immediately with warm pita bread for scooping.
Notes
The zero-waste pulp hack.
If you ever make hollowed-out stuffed zucchini, never throw away the watery core. Sauté that scooped-out pulp in a skillet with olive oil, smashed garlic, and dried mint until it reduces into a savory, garlicky jam—a zero-waste variation known as Mfarakeh Lubb al-Kousa.
The carnivore's upgrade.
To build a heavier winter supper, swap the eggs for a half-pound of ground beef or lamb. Brown the meat with the onions first, season heavily with cinnamon and allspice, then simmer the zucchini in the rendered fat until meltingly tender.
From Cook Lebanese in America.