Melomakarona
Μελομακάρονα·(meh-lo-mah-KAH-ro-nah)
Nistisima (The Fasting Table & Everyday Vegan)
For the first-generation kid in an Ohio suburb, the smell of cinnamon, clove, and orange zest means the holidays have finally arrived. Melomakarona are the undisputed kings of the Greek Christmas table. Born of the Orthodox fast, these unpretentious vegan cookies rely entirely on the Mediterranean trinity of olive oil, wheat, and honey. The magic lies in an impossible texture: a crisp, sandy exterior yielding to a core entirely saturated with sweet syrup. Achieving this isn't about fancy equipment; it’s about obeying the unyielding laws of the Greek grandmother: never, ever knead the dough, and always plunge piping hot cookies straight into ice-cold syrup.
Before you start
Make the syrup ahead of time.
The cardinal rule of syrupping is that hot cookies must meet cold syrup. Make the syrup at least three hours before you plan to bake, or leave it in the fridge overnight.
Ingredients
- granulated sugar2 cup
- water2 cup
- honey2 cup
- cinnamon stick1 large
- clove3 small
- orange1/2 med
- fresh thyme1 sprig
- light extra virgin olive oil1 cup
- neutral oil1 cup
- fresh orange juice3/4 cup
- cognac1/4 cup
- granulated sugar1 cup
- baking soda1 tsp
- orange2 large
- all-purpose flour6 1/2 cup
- fine semolina1 cup
- baking powder2 tsp
- ground cinnamon2 tsp
- ground clove1 tsp
- ground nutmeg1/2 tsp
- walnuts1 1/2 cup
- ground cinnamon1 tsp
- ground clove1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Boil the syrup base.
Combine the water, 2 cups of sugar, cinnamon stick, whole cloves, orange peel, and fresh thyme in a saucepan and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat for exactly 3 to 5 minutes to dissolve the sugar.
- 02
Stir in the honey and cool completely.
Remove the pan from the heat, gently stir in the honey until it melts seamlessly into the liquid, and allow the syrup to cool entirely to room temperature or colder.
- 03
Whisk the dry ingredients.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, fine semolina, baking powder, 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon of ground clove, and nutmeg.
- 04
Whisk the wet ingredients.
In a separate large bowl, vigorously whisk the olive oil, neutral oil, cognac, 1 cup of sugar, and orange zest for about a minute until the sugar begins to dissolve.
- 05
Activate the baking soda.
Hold the freshly squeezed orange juice over the wet bowl, add the baking soda to the juice, and stir quickly until it foams up. Pour the foam into the oil mixture and gently whisk to combine.
- 06
Fold the wet and dry mixtures without kneading.
Dump the dry bowl into the wet bowl and use a flexible spatula to gently fold the mixture together with broad, sweeping motions just until the flour is absorbed. This should take no more than 15 seconds; kneading will build gluten, force out the oil, and leave you with dense rocks.
- 07
Rest the dough.
Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let it sit for 20 minutes to allow the semolina to properly hydrate.
- 08
Shape and score the cookies.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and pinch off small pieces of dough, rolling them into smooth, slightly flattened ovals. Place them an inch apart on parchment-lined baking sheets and gently press the tines of a fork onto the top of each to create a crosshatch pattern.
- 09
Bake until deeply golden.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until thoroughly browned. A pale cookie will turn to mush when it hits the syrup.
- 10
Plunge the hot cookies into the cold syrup.
The moment you pull a tray from the oven, drop the piping hot cookies directly into the cold syrup for 15 to 20 seconds, flipping once so both sides drink the liquid.
- 11
Drain and garnish with spiced walnuts.
Remove the cookies with a slotted spoon to a wire rack, and while they are still sticky, sprinkle generously with the finely chopped walnuts mixed with the remaining ground cinnamon and clove.
Notes
Weigh your ingredients.
Volume measurements work, but for the absolute perfect texture every time without fail, you should really weigh your flour, oils, and liquids on a kitchen scale.
Storage is your friend.
Because these contain no dairy or eggs, the honey acts as a natural preservative. They will keep perfectly in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a month, and actually taste better on day three.
From Cook Greek in America.